No, West Country Girl is not a gas station dive along America’s Route 66. The West Country refers to Brittany in the west of France, where one finds some of the most delicious galettes, classic buckwheat crêpes filled with ham, cheese, and an egg. Galettes can be leaden or ethereal, and here in this small, 50’s-style diner they are truly outstanding -- parchment-paper thin and golden. (The selection is huge, including mimolette and spinach; Camembert and bacon; goat cheese and spinach; bacon and mushrooms.) Dessert offerings might include a memorable sweet crêpe topped with meltingly delicious salted caramel. Go for what’s on the plate and the charming service. The floors are bare concrete, walls distressed plaster, chairs colorful castoffs from the 1950’s. Lunch will set you back around 9 to 12 euros. Oysters are also one the menu later in the week.
West Country Girl, 6, Passage Saint-Ambroise, Paris 11. Tel: +33 1 47 00 72 54. Métro: Saint-Maur or Parmentier. Open lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday. Tuesday lunch only. Closed Sunday and Monday.