Les Tablettes: try again

A recent visit to Jean-Louis Nomicos’s new Les Tablettes left me feeling sated but not satisfied. In the space that formerly housed Joel Robuchon’s La Table du Robuchon, the completely redecorated room – designed to make you feel as though you are in a woven market basket – a lot is left to be desired. The 58-euro lunch menu, which includes wine, is not badly priced and I would have felt it was a bargain if the food had sparkled. It didn’t. A daurade tartare paired with shiso and mango seemed to have no point and was simply bland. A langoustine broth with a tiny mound of minced langoustines seemed a waste. The greatest pleasure in these delectable sea creatures is in the airy texture, totally lost here. I did love the gorgeous lamb shoulder, which cut like butter and was bathed in a sparkling sauce laced with spice (photo).  A cheese course of fresh goat cheese, Parmesan and apple just made no sense, and a dessert of apple compote is not my idea of dessert. I think the chef is not aware of what incredible competition he has these days in Paris. Time to go back to the drawing board.

LES TABLETTES, 16, rue Bugeaud, Paris  16. Tel: +33 (0)1  56 28 16 16. Métro: Victor Hugo. 58-euro lunch menu. Other menus at 80, 120, and 150 euros.  Open daily. www.lestablettesjeanlouisnomicos.com

Oysters with Olivia

A memorable, rollicking,  and boisterous lunch today with actress and Parisian Olivia de Havilland (age 94 and loving every moment of life)  enjoying champagne, briny  oysters from Utah Beach, and a few sips of Pouilly Fumé from the Loire Valley. We talked of present moments, old times,  and times to come, enjoying it all with my 89-year-old friend Maggie Shapiro and the young Jeannie Fellowes. In the background is Stéphane, who comes in from Normandy each weekend  with his oysters. Next weekend is the last weekend for oysters at our favorite oyster spot, Brassierie Aux PTT, 54 rue Cler, Paris 7. +33 1 45 51 94 96. Métro: Ecole-Militaire (line 8).

Salad as a Meal Challenge!

I am excited to announce the beginning of the Salad As A Meal Challenge! My new book Salad As A Meal will be published April 5, and my wonderful publisher William Morrow has organized a fabulous month long challenge, offering free copies of the cookbook for those who cook at least three Salad As A Meal recipes a week for four weeks and blog about their experience. I’ll be following your comments, and look forward to every last bite!

Click here to get the all the details, including how to enter, program guidelines, and blogger benefits.

www.thesecretingredientblog.com/four-weeks-of-salad-as-a-meal-challenge/

Angela delivers bread to Fish

I confess that I could easily lunch or dine at the wine bar/restaurant Fish La Boissonerie once a week, and would be totally happy just sipping some delicious wine (our own Clos Chanteduc Cotes du Rhone is on the list now!) and eating the warm and golden brick oven bread from Cosi, just across the street. The friendly Anglophone spot reminds me of the coffee shop from Friends, where you always run into someone you know and always feel at home. Sunday’s lunch was no exception, with the charming Colombian Angela Jaramitto taking orders and delivering fresh bread every few minutes or so (photo). I always love the simple arugula, date and Parmesan salad, as well as the daurade on a welcoming bed of poached vegetables, including leeks, tomatoes, potatoes, and bits of citrus. Yesterday’s wine was a delight, the Macon-Villages Quintaine 2009, 100% Chardonnay from Pierette and Michel Guillemot, a white with a surprising amount of acidity and vigor. (And, no, the 2011 Gault-Millau guide is dead wrong: Barack Obama did NOT eat here!)

FISH LA BOISSONERIE, 69, rue de Seine, Paris 6. Telephone +33 1 43 54 34 69. Métro : Mabillon/Odéon.

Salad as a Meal: Patricia Wells Tour

SaladAsMeal_md

April 13:  NEW YORK CITY

2:30 to 4 PM James Beard Foundation—talk & signing

Chelsea Markets, 9th Ave and West 16th St

7 PM French Institute Alliance Française

Conversation with Ina Garten

Demo, book signing

22 E 60th St

Melissa Ceria, (646) 388-6628

April 14: NEW YORK AREA

9 AM Hour NBC-TV Today Show

12:15 PM “Eat Drink with Lucinda Scala Quinn”—Live

Martha Stewart Living, Sirius XM Satellite Radio

7:30PM New Canaan Library—signing

151 Main Street / New Canaan, CT

*RSVP programs@newcanaanlibrary.orgor (203) 594-5040

April 15: NEW YORK CITY

7PM Borders in Time Warner Center—signing

10 Columbus Circle

April 16:  NEW YORK REGION

3PM Books & Greetings—signing

271 Livingston St, Northvale, NJ

Kenny Salfin, (201) 784-2665, kennys1407@aol.com

April 17: CHICAGO

3 to 5 PM The Spice House—signing

1512 North Wells St/ Chicago, IL

Patty Erd, (312) 274-0378

RSVP spices@thespicehouse.com

April 18: MILWAUKEE

12 to 2PM Bartolotta’s Restaurants—Luncheon, signing

Bacchus,  925 E Wells / Milwaukee, WI

John Wise, (414) 765-1166

RSVP (414) 765-1166;

$95/ includes lunch, wine. book

April 19: CHICAGO REGION

12 to 3 PM Froggy’s French Café—Luncheon, signing

306 Green Bay Rd Highwood, IL

Lake Forest Book Store

Susan Boucher, (847) 234-4420

(847) 234-4420; $35/ for lunch

April 20: SEATTLE

Morning TV:    KING-TV “New Day Northwest”

Or KCPQ-TV “Q-13 Fox News This Morning”

Or “KING 5 Morning News” on KONG-TV

12 to 2 PM The Walrus and the Carpenter—Lunch, signing

4743 Ballard Avenue NW / Seattle, Washington 98107

Renee Erickson, (206) 395-9227

(206) 395-9227; $75 all-inclusive

4 PM                KOMO-TV “KOMO First News at 4”

6:30PM Boat Street—Dinner and book signing

3131 Western Ave  #301 / Seattle, WA

Renee Erickson, (206) 395-9227

(206) 632-4602 $100, all-inclusive

April 21:           SEATTLE

6:30PM Rose’s Bakery and Café—Dinner, signing

382 Prune Alley Orcas Island, WA

(360) 376-5805

April 22:           SEATTLE

1PM Press & blogger lunch at Jeffrey Bergman’s home

4611 51st Av South  Seattle, WA

April 23:            SAN FRANCISCO

10:30AM KGO-AM “Gene Burns Show”—Live

12 to 2 PM Pasta Shop—signing

1786 Fourth Street / Berkeley, CA

Roberta Klugman, (510) 655-7790

3PM Omnivore Books on Food—signing

3885A Cesar Chavez St  San Francisco, CA

(415) 282-4712

April 25:           SAN FRANCISCO

12 to 1PM Google—Lunch, talk & signing

345 Spear Street – 4th Floor in San Francisco

Lindsay Dahms lindsayd@google.com

7PM Books, Inc. (Marina Store)— signing

2251 Chestnut St San Francisco

(415) 931-3633

April 26:            SAN FRANCISCO

6:30PM Left Bank Restaurant dinner

507 Magnolia Avenue / Larkspur, CA

(415) 927-3331

Contact: Marguerita Castanera, mordie@vom.com

Friday, April 29: GREENSBORO

7 pm Book Signing Barnes & Noble Greensboro

May 1 and 2: BLACKBERRY FARM

NEAR KNOXVILLE, TN

Hand’s on cooking class and special meals

Kelley Clark Harris kelley@blackberryfarm.com.

May 3:               RALEIGH

7PM Regulator Bookshop—Talk, signing

720 Ninth St/ Durham, NC

Tom Campbell (919) 286-2700

May 4:               RALEIGH

7:30PM Quail Ridge Books—signing

3522 Wade Ave / Raleigh, NC

Rene Martin, (919) 828-7912

May 5:               RALEIGH

6PM A Southern Season—$35 Dinner, signing

201 S. Estes Drive / Chapel Hill, NC

www.southernseason.com 877 929 7133

A lemon lover's dream

Pascal Barbot is in top form, offering us food that is light, laced with herbs and spices, and an avalanche of varied citrus flavors. I left his 12-course lunch with pep in my step and a palate coated with extraordinary taste memories. How to decide best bite of the meal? The demitasse-sized condiment of spinach and pequillo peppers? The baby ravioli filled with a tangy bite of cedrat or citron? The chili pepper sorbet brilliantly paired with lemongrass and ginger? Or the almost too pretty to eat lemon meringue sablé? (photo). Then there is the warm and golden  brioche spread with a fragrant, salty butter of rosemary and lemon. And of course the chestnut honey madeleines. For grand dining, the 110 euro lunch menu is one the city’s best buys. Pascal Barbot and partner Christophe Rohat have always done it their way, discreetly, professionally, with a smile. And if lucky enough to secure a table in this tiny restaurant, we are the lucky recipients of their talents.

L’ASTRANCE , 4, rue Beethoven, Paris 16. Tel: +33 1 40 50 84 40.Métro: Passy. Open Tuesday through Friday. Closed Saturday, Sunday, and Monday.

Double yolk madness!

We just finished two incredible all-truffle days in Provence. Today we visited the Richerenches truffle market (and tasted novel and delectable fast food -- baby pancakes prepared on the spot, filled with fresh black truffles, then topped with a pat of butter). Back at home for lunch I prepared one of my favorite dishes. The first-of-season Provençal  green asparagus is in the market, and the season for fresh black truffles is nearing an end. I love braising the aspargus in olive oil, flavored with rosemary and bay leaves, then topping the asparagus with a poached egg, truffles, and a slice of coppa. As it turns out, the poached egg in the photograph was the EIGHTH double-yolk egg in a row that I had cracked, from our incredible cheese supplier Josiane Déal, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) in Vaison-la-Romaine.  I don't know about you, but I always consider double-yolk eggs a sign of good luck, so hopefully I'll have eight full days of good fortune.     

Brad Pitt bakes bread

Gontran Cherrier (can that be his real name?) is a wild man. His breads are like halloween costumes: arugula green, paprika orange, squid ink black. And he doesn't stop there, infusing breads with flavors of cumin and carraway; golden curry powder; even black miso. I love him, his shop,  his ambition, his sense of humor.  His bad boy good looks make him a stand-in for Brad Pitt. But the proof is in the tasting, and I am happy that his tidy little shop on the charming Rue Caulaincourt can be reached nonstop on my Métro line, for it's easy enough to keep my kitchen stocked with a fresh loaf of his irresistible rye bread tinged with a salty touch of red miso. Go for breakfast, sit at the windowside counters, and enjoy!

Gontran Cherrier, 22, rue Caulaincourt, Paris 18. Tel: +33 1 46 06 82 66. Metro: Lamark-Caulaincourt.  Open 7:30 am to 8:30 pm Monday through Saturday, 7:30 am to 7 pm Sunday. Closed Wednesday. http://www.gontrancherrierboulanger.com/

Salad As A Meal by Patricia Wells

Salad As Meal

We’ve had a tremendous amount of excitement about Salad As A Meal. Enthusiasm on blogs and in publications has been fantastic! Cooks attacking the Four Weeks of Salad As A Meal Challenge have raved about the Crab Salad with Lime and Avocado (p 124) The BLT Tartine (p 83), My Cobb Salad (p 57), the Zucchini Carpaccio with Avocado, Pistachios, and Pistachio Oil (p 114), and of course the recipe that seems to be everyone’s favorite in this cookbook, the Poached Turkey Breast Salad with Lemon, Capers, Cornichons, and Mint (p 207). (During my current series of cooking classes in Paris, the moist, amazing turkey breast salad was named Best Taste of the Week three weeks in a row!) We’ve been featured in Food & Wine Magazine, a flurry of blogs, and many more mentions are on their way.

The newest book, or any of my others, would make idea gifts (think Mother’s Day!). I will be glad to send an autographed book plate for any of my books that you already have or plan to purchase for yourself or as gifts. Send requests, with your address, to asst@patriciawells.com

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To order SALAD AS A MEAL 

Philou: the good new days

Modern Parisian bistros know no bounds these days. It's not possible that diners ate better in the “good old days.” Today food is fresher, unmasked, and more wholesome. The bright and lively Philou, home of Philippe Damas ( last seen at Square Trousseau) is a case in point. Damas offers old-time ingredients – like pig’s cheeks and calf’s liver – and serves them up with a simplicity and freshness that is thoroughly appealing. He pairs slow-cooked, moist and meaty pig’s cheeks (photo) with a tangy celery root boulangère (baked in a gratin dish with nothing but chicken stock until all the stock is absorbed) and cooks calf’s liver like a giant piece of meat, with a deeply seared outer crust and moist, rosy interior. I also loved the beautifully marinated fresh sardines, paired with a julienne of apples and set on a bed of warm, bathed potatoes. The choice of wine is excellent : Try the superb 2006  Côtes du Rhone, Vieille Julienne, so rich and powerful it could easily pass as a Châteauneuf du Pape. The tiny place off the Canal Saint Martin  is super loud,  super fun, and a super bargain.

Philou, 12, Avenue Richerand, Paris 10. Tel: +33 1 42 38 00 13. Métro: Jacques Bonsergent. Closed Sunday and Monday. 25 euro menu.

Eugene, Eugene

There seems to be no end to “outer borough” bargain-priced dining spots and La Table d’Eugène in the 18th arrondissement is surely one to add to the list. Chef-owner Geoffroy Maillard has his finger on it all: a lovely varied menu that makes you want to try everything; service that is as efficient as it can be even when the tiny dining room is packed -- as it always is; and a knack for beautiful food prepared with top-rate ingredients. Lunch choices might include a stunning millefeuille-like dorade tartare stacked between thin slices of daikon and  topped with an herb garden salad (photo); an ultra-fresh portion of cod topped with thin slices of Pata Negra ham and a vinaigrette of pequillo peppers and chives, teamed up with a brilliantly devised (though sadly overcooked) watercress risotto; and a soothing seven-hour gigot paired with the freshest of brilliant carrots. There’s a nice selection of wines by the glass, including the always reliable Jurançon sec Cuvèe Marie from the southwest.  Desserts are spectacular, including a chocolate “pearl” melted at the table with a drizzle of  hot chocolate seasoned judiciously with Tasmanian peppercorns; and a pineapple “carpaccio” set  on a crunchy chocolate and citron biscuit accompanied by a super-rich yogurt ice cream. Prices can vary from 18 euros for lunch to custom-designed “skies the limit” menus for two to twenty.

LA TABLE D’EUGENE, 18, rue Eugène Sue, Paris 18. Tel: +33 1  42 55 61 64. Metro: Marcadet-Poissoneries and Jules Joffrin. Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch menus at 18,  25 and 35 €.  30 € and up at dinner.

West Country Girl

No, West Country Girl is not a gas station dive along America’s Route 66. The West Country refers to Brittany in the west of France, where one finds some of the most delicious galettes, classic buckwheat crêpes filled with ham, cheese, and an egg. Galettes can be leaden or ethereal, and here in this small, 50’s-style diner they are truly outstanding -- parchment-paper thin and golden. (The selection is huge, including mimolette and spinach; Camembert and bacon; goat cheese and spinach; bacon and mushrooms.) Dessert offerings might include a memorable sweet crêpe topped with meltingly delicious salted caramel. Go for what’s on the plate and the charming service. The floors are bare concrete, walls distressed plaster, chairs colorful castoffs  from the 1950’s. Lunch will set you back around 9 to 12 euros. Oysters are also one the menu later in the week.

West Country Girl, 6, Passage Saint-Ambroise, Paris 11. Tel: +33 1 47 00 72 54. Métro: Saint-Maur or Parmentier. Open lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday. Tuesday lunch only. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Tiny tastes from France's southwest

Anyone in the mood for a quick, inexpensive, hearty lunch should head over to the 5th and the month-old Dans les Landes, the second restaurant of a 15th arrondissement favorite, Afaria. A rambling café just steps from the Rue Mouffetard market and the charming St Médard square, this smart little spot is full of varied tapas-style tastes from France’s southwest, including meaty grilled quail breasts; tender fried chipirions (baby squid) sprinkled with a touch of sweet pepper (photo); good spare ribs (travers de porc) marred by a sauce that was much too sweet; and an adorable salade landaise, a take on Asian spring rolls: foie gras, salad and duck breast wrapped in rice paper and cut into bite-sized pieces. Just ask them to please hold the chemical truffle oil in the dipping sauce. Sip a glass of white Irouleguy, and enjoy! One can lunch well for 20 euros or less. 

Dans les Landes, 119 bis, rue Monge, Paris 5. Tel: +33 1 45 87 06 00. Métro: Censier-Daubenton.

Yes, rules of the games

Put on your highest heels,  your tightest and shortest black dress, your biggest diamond studs and reserve a table at Règle de Je(u), the newest table of Jean-Francois Piège, ex-Crillon, les Ambassadeurs, Louix XV, and Plaza Athenée. Don’t rush to put on those heels for you may have to wait in line for a table at this tiny, 20-seat dining room.  But the wait is worth it. Pretty much.

Piège, like so many major French chefs before him, starting with Joel Robuchon, decided to ditch the suffocating Michelin Three Star drama and make himself up. He shed some pounds, made up his own space, and recreated what he calls a restaurant. Bravo! I am all for it, though we as diners pay a little price in the experiment. Nothing is perfect. But before I go into detail, I have to say that Piège’s food is some of the prettiest and most ethereal I have tasted in a long time and I can’t wait to dig deeper into his repertoire.  

Days later I still have great memories of the dreamy lunch at his table. The restaurant is called Règle de Je(u) or Rules of the Game, with a play on words that easily translates at Rules of My Game. It’s unique. The place, a Hollywoodesque setting on the second floor with an unsigned speakeasy-like entrance on the Rue Saint-Dominique may not be for everyone. You’re seated at plush banquettes, the waitstaff is as slim and tall (and as accommodating) as they come, and there is no menu, just a list of ingredients of the day. You choose as many as you wish, by price. That day’s list of ingredients included Caviar, Coquilles Saint-Jacques, Langoustines, Bar de Ligne, Boeuf, Ris de Veau. 1 ingredient is 70 euros, 2 ingredients 90 euro, 3 ingredients 115 euro, and 3 ingredients with wine, 165 euro. Not cheap.

But each menu includes a generous and beautiful selection of starters, and of course dessert. The wine list is as extensive as any palate, expertise, or budget could imagine.  

So what did we eat and what did we love? Best taste of the day was his huge serving of langoustines with a pungent and delicious kaffir lime-based sauce paired with a rectangle of and perfectly seared foie gras. Fabulous and gorgeous. Equally flavorful and beautiful was the carpaccio of beef with a criss-cross of parmesan cream (PHOTO). A delight!   

I was much less enthused by the beautiful but bland sea bass paired with wild mushrooms and the seared beef from Chili that, I am sorry, was nicely cooked but so tough as to be inedible.

But I applaud Piège’s  ability to create a new idea of what a restaurant can be. Piège seems relaxed and at home, working the room with smiles, in blue-jean casual, with a clientele that seems happy and at home. To be continued!

Règle de Je(u), Jean-Francois Piège, 79, rue Saint-Dominique, Paris 7. Telephone: +33 1 47 05 36 96 jeanfracoispiege@thoumieux.com. www.jfpiege.com. www.thoumieux.com.

Les Pâtes Vivantes: A fiery trip to China

UPDATE April 2014: The boulevard Saint-Germain location is no longer run by the same people, and as I haven't yet tried it I cannot attest to the quality. It's business as usual at the Faubourg-Montmartre location however.

I was hungry for Asian and something fiery so settled into a window table at the small, casual Les Pâtes Vivantes on  the Boulevard Saint Germain. The satisfying and amazingly long, alabaster handpulled noodles are prepared right in front of  you, and one can even follow  the action from the street, thanks to a screen with live video hanging in front of the shop. There’s tons to offer here, but we headed straight for the heat, their spicy “crevettes touchant la ciel,” a giant bowl of  soothing wheat noodles teamed up with squares of soft tofu, Chinese cabbage, shrimp in the shell, and plenty of Sichwan peppercorns (photo). All that, shared and unfinished, for 12.50 euros.  I was in seventh heaven!

  A great starter here is their mustard green salad, bathed in a sesame oil dressing, plenty of garlic, and whole almonds. And this is one of the few places in Paris where a  “doggy bag” is not only allowed, but offered!  (There is a second shop on 46, rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, Paris 9, Tel: +33 1 45 23 10 21. Métro: Le Peletier.) 

Les Pates Vivantes, 22, Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 5 . Tel: +33 1 40 46 84 33. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité. Closed Sunday. 

Auguste, no thanks!

Gaël Orieux is certainly one of the darling Parisian chefs of the moment, with press and accolades all over. He’s been on my “to try” list for a few years and I finally found a moment to take a seat at his table. I am excited that he introduced me to MrGoodfish, an incredible European program working to promote sustainable fish and shellfish. Take a look at their website www.MrGoodfish.com. I only wish that a recent lunch had lived up to the chef’s fanfare and reputation.

Though the welcome at Auguste is warm and service impeccable, what happened in the kitchen and on the plate was simply not convincing. A first course celery root “cannelloni”  stuffed generously with crab meat, set  in a brilliant  green  coriander puree, adorned with a line of pungent tomato sauce and flanked with smooth, moist slices of Italian charcuterie was delicious (photo) and I plan to recreate it at home. But there seemed to be something amiss in the strange main course of sea bass that was limp, almost shredded and resmbling no sea bass I know. The sad and tasteless fish was set in a mushy bed of pumpkin puree and simply left me without an appetite. Another first course combination of oysters,  horseradish, and andouille also seemed terribly misguided and without a clear direction. For a man who makes claims to pristine, fresh fish and shellifsh, he simply did not deliver.  The brief wine list is excellent and I have no complaints about the golden, close to perfect Vougeot 1er cru 2007 we sampled, decently priced at 75 euros. But all in all, too expensive and not enough “wow” to make me want to return.

Auguste, 54, rue de Bourgogne, Paris 7. Tel : +33 1 45 51 81 09. www.restaurantauguste.fr Closed Saturday and Sunday. 35-euro lunch menu. A la carte, about 100 euros per person, not including wine.

Toyo, a calming zen moment

Some eight years ago the designer Kenzo discovered Toyomitsu Nakayama cooking in one of the many Japanese eateries along Rue Sainte Anne in Paris’s first arrondissement. He quickly hired Toyo away as his private chef. Toyo had a fine time with that, but a year ago decided to go it on his own.  I figured that what’s good enough for Kenzo’s palate might be good enough for mine, and I was not disappointed.

Toyo’s clean, sleek, quiet little restaurant on a hard-to-find street in the Montparnasse neighborhood in the 6th arrondissement is a gem. I arrived for lunch famished, and in a bit of a tizzy from a stressful morning. Within a few moments I felt calm, relaxed, unhurried. Everyone in this spotless restaurant works with a sense of elegance and precision. Toyo is there in the open kitchen, cooking on his griddle and induction plaques, creating a cuisine that’s not Japanese and not French, but completely his own.

The streamlined 35 and 45 euro lunch menus offer just enough choices, and the series of small plates make for a fun way to witness Toyo’s talents. He offers tiny rectangles of perfectly cooked merlan (whiting) showered with flakes of salty bottarga (dried, salted mullet or cod)   set upon a bed of giant cepe mushrooms. The dish was not only beautiful, but rich, complex, and comforting. A star of the meal was the single seared shrimp leaning against a delicious rectangle of white radish,   the texture of polenta and made up of a delicate blend of grated radish, mushroom broth and soy. (Photo). For dessert, a stunning green tea ice cream topped with a warm red bean broth set me on my way out the door, floating in a sea of calm.

Toyo, 17, rue Jules Chaplain, Paris 6. Tel : +33 1 43 54 28 03. Closed Sunday and Monday.  Métro : Vavin.

Al Taglio: Dream pizza by the kilo

Along with the wood oven treasures from Pizza Chic (113, rue de Mézíères, Paris 6) I vote Al Taglio’s pizzas as some of the best in Paris. Walk into this small, casual eatery at noon and the chef will already have three or four giant rectangles of steaming pizza set out before you.  On a recent weekday we found mouth-watering Margherita; mozzarella and Parma ham; a version topped with truffle cream and thin discs of potato; and porcini and Parmesan. The crust is thick and airy, the kind of chewy, long-rise dough my Italian mother used to make, and all ingredients are fresh. You indicate the size of slice you want, they weigh it, and you pay by the kilo. Prices range from about 27 to 36 euros per kilo, with an average slice priced at around 5 euros.  I’ll be going back to sample the spicy sausage and artichoke variation. And imagine, having one delivered to your door? Too good to be true.

Al Taglio, 2 bis rue Neuve Popincourt, Paris 11. Tel : +33 1 43 38 12 00. Metro: Parmentier or Oberkampf. Open daily noon to 11 pm (until midnight Friday and Saturday.) Deliveries of whole pizzas, serving 8 to 10, 24 hours in advance.

A new star at L'Étoile

Intense, explosive flavors and imaginative fare await diners at Joel Robuchon’s newest addition to the Paris restaurant scene, L’Atelier Etoile de Joel Robuchon. Situated in the lower level of the Drugstore Publicis at the Etoile, the bright red and black space is already full of glittery Las Vegas-style drama. But the real scene is what’s on the plate and what happens to your palate with each pleasurable bite.

As we were nearly finished with our multi-course tasting lunch yesterday one of my lunch companions said in disbelief “This must be what it feels like to take LSD! The reds are more red, everything is more focused, more extreme.”  I second that.

The menu offers some welcoming Robuchon classics, many dating back to the 1980’s and the early days of Jamin. But with Japanese chef  Yosuke Suga in charge an entirely new line of Asian-inspired aromas and flavors share the limelight. Suga previously served as head chef at the Atelier branches in New York and Taipei, and is a member of the very tightly knit group of Robuchon chefs who travel the world to make sure each of the 10 Ateliers stay on top of the game.

The lunch served as a case study as to how old dishes can become new again. Once a dish is perfected – as only Robuchon can do – it can live on forever. His classic creation of caviar in lobster jelly, topped with cauliflower cream offers an explosion accompanying every bite, the magical grains of caviar almost suspended in the rich jelly, and the cauliflower cream serving to intensify and smooth out flavors at the same time. Served in tiny glass bowls with a clear glass lid the presentation alone would be sufficient drama.

Another specialty not to be ignored is the penetrating bite of smooth and pungent foie gras set in a dense port jelly, topped with a soothing Parmesan cream. Mouthfilling, intense, unforgettable.

Joel’s classic potato and truffle salad has been turned inside-out, and here appears as a beautiful architectural offering, with smooth curls of foie gras, paper- thin shards of toast, slim discs of truffles, thick slices of potatoes,  shavings of Parmesan and just a few whispers of arugula. The textures and flavors walk arm in arm. I would have loved the dish more if the potatoes had been warm.

Chef Suga’s addition of Les Shishitots – tiny, thin-skinned Japanese peppers  that are slightly sweet and barely spicy – gets a big winter welcome when any touch of greenery on the plate demands applause. It’s hard to pick a best taste of the day here, but the little peppers were pierced with wooden skewers and laced between meaty mushrooms cooked to perfection on their flat plate “plancha.” A tiny dollop of brilliant green, extra-mild wasabi mousse topped it all off. I could have easily gone for a second portion. (Photo)

But then what about the salsify ? Who knew salsify could taste so great! The theme of many of the newer dishes here seems to be a lot of rectangles and squares, and in the case of the much maligned and ignored salsify, the rectangles of the winter root vegetable are lined up side-by-side and topped with golden, crispy salsify chips.

L’Atelier Etoile de Joel Robuchon, Publicis Drugstore, 133, avenue des Champs Elysées, Paris 8. Tel : + 33 1 47 23 75 75. www.joel-robuchon.com Open daily. Lunch reservations accepted. Dinner reservations at 6:30 only. Small tastes from 14 to 65 euros. Nine-course tasting menu, 150 euros.

Saturne: a keeper

Too much ink has already been spilled over Saturne, one of a handful of current cult restaurants in Paris. Since the restaurant’s opening in September, much of the word has been negative and underwhelming, suggesting the place might have needed a softer opening. All I can say is that a recent lunch at the hands of young chef Sven Chartier (last seen at Racines) tells me this is a place that I am going to want to return to again and again. What we want today is fresh, inventive fare that is at once familiar and surprisingly new and Saturne delivers.

The blond wood decor and airy glass roof is warming, and service (despite a bit of confusion over a reservation)  is attentive and correct. Sven loves the mandolin, and everything from all manner of root vegetables to golden Comté cheese are sliced paper thin. The vegetables arrive as though they were lean, shiny sheets of colorful pasta, all the while guarding their integrity and flavor. Main courses, such as a moist cochon de lait and fat slices of codfish, were cooked to perfection. And there are some pleasing surprises, such as alabaster squid topped with a tiny buckwheat blinis and an effusive oyster mousse (photo).  I didn’t love the wine, a “natural” beverage, Domaine Valette's  Viré Clessé 2005. It had a maderized edge, no balance of fruit and acid, an added, alas, nothing to the experience. Desserts were a bit heavy,  with a thick brioche perdu  and  overly saturated baba au rhum. But I’d go back again and again just to sample baker Christophe Vasseur’s pain des amis, a vibrant, thick-crusted loaf with a bright and nutty flavor. (Boulangerie du Pain et des Idées,  34, rue Yves Toudic, Paris 10.)  At lunch time, snacks and wine are served at the bar near the entrance.

Saturne, 17, rue Notre-Dames des Victoires, Paris 2. Telephone : +33 1 42 60 31 90.  Métro Bourse. Closed Saturday and Sunday. 35 euro lunch menu, 37 euro dinner menu.