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World of food: From Milwaukee to Provence and back

By ANNE SCHAMBERG
Special to the Journal Sentinel

Posted: June 15, 2004

It's a creme de la creme life, one most foodies would trade their trophy kitchens to live.

Patricia Wells Photo/Mary Jo Walicki Patricia Wells (center), speaking Sunday with fans at Lake Park Bistro, grew up on brats in Milwaukee and now lives in France.

Patricia Wells, one of the world's top French food experts, divides her time between an apartment in Paris and a restored 18th-century farmhouse in northern Provence. She is restaurant critic for the International Herald Tribune and author of several bestselling cookbooks.

Wells made several stops in Milwaukee on Sunday promoting her latest book, "The Provence Cookbook" (Harper Collins, 2004, $29.95).

People in our corner of the world can take special pleasure in her success story because Wells - nee Kleiber - grew up in Wisconsin eating potato salad, bratwurst and schaum torte.

A graduate of Pius XI High School in Wauwatosa, she earned her degree in journalism at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee.

It was in 1980 that she moved with her husband, Walter, from New York to Paris, when he became editor of the International Herald Tribune.

During an interview from Paris before she left on a book tour, Wells reminisced about her Wisconsin childhood.

"My mom had just the greatest garden. We had everything - tomatoes, blueberries, gooseberries, raspberries. I thought everyone grew up like that," she said.

Her mother, Vera Kleiber, was an enthusiastic cook who made bread and pizza from scratch and always made sure the cookie jar was full. Kleiber now lives in Raleigh, N.C.

The love of cooking and gardening - Wells grows 20 varieties of heirloom tomatoes - evolved from her Midwestern past: "It's really a Milwaukee continuation."

She described her new book, which includes 175 recipes, as a reflection of "the way I am now, the feel I have for food now."

Most of the recipes are gathered from or inspired by the Provencal farmers, winemakers, shopkeepers and restaurateurs she knows and admires. Turn to the chapter on bread, and there's Carpentras Multiseed Bread from a favorite bread vendor. Turn to meats, and there's Franck's Thyme-Marinated Leg of Lamb from her butcher.

Her clear writing style produces easy-to-follow instructions for even the most esoteric-sounding recipe. Substitutions are often included for hard-to-find ingredients.

Wells lovingly describes an abundance of foods from grains such as kamut to exotic saffron and tiny clams called tellines. There's also a good splash of information on wine, including favorite producers. And her expertise goes beyond edibles to other products, which are dear to her heart, such as Provencal pottery.

Travelers intent on eating their way through the region will find this book useful as a travel guide because Wells provides addresses and contact information for recommended purveyors and restaurants.

In the introduction, she writes that her food has become simpler over the years. She wants a pear cake to taste of pears, not sugar or honey, and tomatoes to "star" in a tomato salad. First-rate ingredients don't need dressing up.

She expanded this idea during the interview: "Today, ingredients come first, the recipe second. I go to the market and I see what's there. If the cherries aren't quite perfect, I'll buy some strawberries. Things are so much more seasonal than ever before."

Of course, it was impossible to resist asking her whether the low-carb craze had reached France.

"Absolutely not - thank God! We eat everything that's around - in moderation," she said.

For avid folks hungry for wisdom beyond what's served up in her cookbooks, this foodceleb also teaches cooking classes in Provence and Paris. To find out more, visit http://www.patriciawells.com/.

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The following recipes are adapted from "The Provence Cookbook."

Eliane's Chunky Zucchini Gratin

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 plump cloves garlic, peeled and halved
1 pound zucchini (about 4), trimmed and cut into chunks
1/4 cup light cream
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup (1 ounce) freshly grated French Gruyere cheese  

Preheat broiler.

In large skillet, heat oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add garlic and zucchini; brown zucchini for about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook until soft, about 10 minutes more.

With slotted spoon, transfer zucchini to gratin dish. Drizzle light cream all over. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with cheese. Place under broiler and broil until cheese is melted and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

Chateau Pesquie's White Peaches Poached in Red Wine

4 ripe white peaches
Grated zest of 1 orange
2 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
10 black peppercorns
1 whole star anise
1 plump vanilla bean
1/2 cup sugar
1 bottle red wine  

Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Set aside.

With small sharp knife, cut a cross at the stem end of each peach. (This will make it easier to peel.)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Plunge peaches into boiling water and boil until skins begin to peel away from flesh, about 2 minutes. With a large slotted spoon, remove peaches from water. Immediately plunge into ice water. As soon as they are cool enough to handle, peel peaches. Cut them in half. Remove and discard pits.

Place peaches in large pot and add remaining ingredients. Cover and let cook over low heat until peaches are soft, usually just a few minutes. With a large slotted spoon, remove peaches from liquid and place in a bowl.

Over high heat, reduce liquid by half, about 10 minutes. Pass liquid through sieve and pour over peaches. Serve warm or chilled, in small glass bowls. Makes 4 servings.