February, 2004 – Wells is one of the
most famous American culinary expats living in France,
and she's carved out
quite a
niche
for herself as the voice of France for American home
cooks. Provence, a sunny region in the hills above the
Riviera, is not a new subject for Wells; although her
last book focused on Paris, she authored Patricia Wells
at Home in Provence in 1996.
For this lively volume, she seems to have combed the
villages surrounding her and her husband's "rewarding
little farmhouse" in northern Provence to come up
with recipes and culinary tips from farmers, winemakers,
tradesmen, shopkeepers and restaurateurs.
It's a robust collection (with over 200 recipes), encompassing
all manner of food, wine and preparation techniques,
and a highly personal one too. For example, in the Salads
section, the recipe for Mireille's Tomato, Green Pepper,
Olive, and Anchovy Salad prompts Wells to expound on
her favorite olive oil; while the recipe for the Maussane
Potter's Spaghetti, which comes from some of the author's
potter friends in the village of Maussane-les-Alpilles,
leads Wells to write about her favorite pottery shops
in Provence. This could be bothersome if Wells were not
so instructive, but her personal digressions serve as
important lessons to cooks and to those planning a trip
to the area.
To that end, Wells includes plenty of travel information,
giving the various locations and hours of Provence's
many markets and contact information for restaurants
and shops. Altogether, this is a lovely cookbook, a celebration
of simple, delectable cuisine.
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