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A day in Brittany, with neither Lunch nor Dinner
Riec sur Bélon, France — I think of it as the day I
got neither lunch nor dinner, but ate very well indeed.
After an hour-long, early morning jog through a pine-lined stretch
of road just steps from the Bélon river near the southern
coast of Brittany, we headed off in search of sunshine, oyster beds,
and scenic views.
Lunch was clearly on our minds.
We parked at the edge of the slender river, tide very low, and headed
towards the famed Chez Jacky, the quintessential waterside fish restaurant
known for its lively ambience, sparkling fresh Bélon oysters,
and giant platters of fish and shellfish that might include baby
shrimp, plump mussels, tiny periwinkles, and colorful spider crabs.
Alas, it was Monday and my favored fish spot was locked tight.
But right next door there was a buzz of activity going on at the
Huîtrières du Château de Bélon, an operation
that’s existed since 1864, when August de Solminihac became
one of the pioneers in oyster reproduction, or oestréiculture,
in Brittany. Here, a handful of young men were busy sorting oysters,
packing oysters large and small in round balsawood baskets for shipping
all over France, while others opened oysters for the handful of vacationers
already on hand to sample the famed, nutty-flavored flat bivalves.
Historically, Bélon oysters have been prized for their unique,
mineral-rich perfume and flavor, and the hint of hazelnut. When they
are at their best, they have greater nuance than the more familiar
crinkle-shelled creuses, since the plate oyster is aged in the Bélon
river, a delicate mixture of sea water and freshwater.
Even though it was only 11 am, the aromas and ambience got the best
of us, and soon we were watching as a lean, tall young Frenchman
deftly opened our order of a dozen pristine and fresh Bélons,
six tiny # 4s and six slightly larger #2s.
The setting had a certain, gentle charm: Though the tide was low,
the skies were a brilliant blue, and there was just enough activity
of fishing boats rolling in and out to make one feel part of the
action. We settled down aside a small white plastic table and waited
for our order, inhaling the myriad owners of seaweed, water and sea
breezes.
My companion reminded me, with a touch of assurance in his voice, “This
doesn’t count as lunch, you know.” I nodded, knowing
that it surely did not.
The oysters arrived, as did real porcelain plates, slices of fresh
and earthy rye bread, and real glasses, ready for sampling a few
sips of Daniel Gratas’s fine Muscadet Sevres et Maine Sur Lie
2004. There are few more perfectly matched food and wine combinations
as the chalky, flinty, mineral-rich white Muscadet and the equally
flinty, fresh and pure oysters. A more pleasant feast could not have
been created in a regal, three-star restaurant. Somehow, at that
moment, culinary perfection was reached, with a tiny squeeze of fresh
lemon, a sheer spread of salty butter, the oysters one by one, the
sips of pure, fresh Muscadet. The tiny Bélon oysters reminded
me of an Olympic gymnast. How do those tiny bodies explode with such
power and energy? I wondered how these miniature bivalves could manage
to capture so much intensity, long-lasting flavor that didn’t
just fill your palate but your entire head. The sea gulls cried,
the birds chirped, we watched hikers enter the fern and oak-filled
forest nearby. All was right with nature and the world.
About six hours later, following an afternoon of touring, various
brocantes, and walks along the water, our car was beckoned off the
road on the western edge of central Brittany as we saw a tidy, colorful
terrace lined with green-stained picnic tables with a breathtaking
view of deep blue waters of the Aulne river, which, like the Bélon
river, leads right into the Atlantic.
The large sign advertising Les Viviers de Terénéz
tempted us with the thought of pristine, fresh oysters, crabs, as
well as fresh and smoked trout. Because of the early hour, the place
was deserted, save for the staff that scurried around tending to
the spotless fish tanks holding monster lobster, giant crabs, all
manner of mussels and plenty of plump creuses oysters. We seated
ourselves at a bare picnic table overlooking a slender beach, festively
carpeted with newly discarded shells representing previous diners
feasts.
After we gave our order --- half a dozen small oysters, half a dozen
medium sized oysters, a whole freshly steamed torteau or crab, a
few slices of Aulne river grown rainbow trout, and some welcome Muscadet,
my companion looked up and announced with clear determination, ” This
doesn’t count as dinner, correct?” I agreed, and soon
we had tiny oyster forks in hand, satisfyingly slurping up the freshest
of oysters, plump, with crystal clear and briny liquid and the sort
of flavors one can only get at the source.
The crab – which had come in from a fisherman in Roscoff just
hours before – was lifted from the viviers, or fish tanks,
and instantly put into the stainless steaming oven for a quick, efficient
cooking. With tons of sweet white meat, the crab was pure, pure pleasure.
We finished off with slices of their rich rainbow trout (owners Pascal
Brisset and Catherine Fitamant grow more than six tons of trout each
year) that had been slow-smoked for a full seven hours over beech
wood, or hêtre, then cured in salt for another two hours. Richly
flavored and lightly smoked, the trout was right at home with Domaine
La Paonnerie’s organically grown Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire
2002 with light, floral overtones of mint and honeysuckle.
Not so bad, for a day without lunch or dinner.
Huîtrières du Château de Belon
Port de Belon
29340 Riec su Belon
Telephone: 02 98 06 41 43
Web: www.huitre-bretagne.com
About 15 euros for two, a dozen oysters, bread, butter, lemons
and half a bottle of wine.
Les Viviers de Térénez
Route de Térénez
29590 Rosnoën
Telephone: 02 98 81 90 86
Web: www.lesviviers.fr
About 60 euros for two, for a tasting of oysters, crab, smoked
trout and wine.
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