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High Style in Shanghai
SHANGHAI – If I could hop on a plane tomorrow, it would be
to Shanghai. A few months ago I made my third visit in 25 years,
and oh has that place changed. Everything from the airport to high-rises
boasts of the biggest and the best, and the glittery city has lots
to go before it fizzles. And the food is among the most exciting
in Asia today. From classic Chinese to trendy modern fare, the city
offers something for everyone.
WHAMPOA CLUB
It’s been a long time since I got up from the table after
dining in a restaurant and whispered to myself, “genius.” But
there’s surely a touch of that talent in the young, sure-footed
Hong Kong-born Jereme Leung, executive chef at Whampoa Club, the
bright, expansive Art Deco-style restaurant in the popular Three
on the Bund complex in Shanghai.
If there are revolutions in contemporary Chinese cooking today,
then it is the gifted, ambitious chefs such as Jereme that will serve
as the leaders. His food is not fusion, it is not confusion, it is
not all about avocadoes and papayas with raw tuna. It’s good,
honest, Chinese fare that’s been given a facelift, an update,
a new look with no sacrifice in flavor. In fact, it’s more
like a upgrade to first class.
On one weekday dinner, chef Leung prepared a multicourse tasting
menu that highlighted some of his greatest hits, many of them classic
Shanghai dishes to which he’s given a personal, well-studied
touch. Most of his small treasures arrive in threes, set in bowls
or dishes or cups on crisp white rectangular plates, each offering
tiny tastes and massive pleasures.
It was hairy crab season, so we began with the classic drunken crab,
a breathtaking preparation that tasted like nothing I’ve ever
sampled before, sweet, creamy with the crab roe, raw, and utterly
exotic. Alongside, he offered crunchy golf-ball sized glutinous rice
rounds stuffed with fresh crab meat, all pretty, crunchy, delicate,
delicious. Alongside, Jereme offered a moist preparation of drunken
chicken, in which the chicken is poached in a rich broth that is
traditionally used for other purposes. Here, the chef chose to turn
the broth into a stunning, soothing, golden ice.
His food does not always walk the straight, narrow, and traditional.
So he’ll slip in a giant, pillow-like deep-fried prawn that
is bathed in a thankfully understated wasabi sauce, all gorgeous,
crunchy, soft, and vibrant tasting. In another dish, soft hairy crab
meat and sea urchin meet in a delicate egg shell, laced with a touch
of black vinegar. Alongside, a warm, deep-fried hairy crab dumpling
serves as a fine, firm, contrast in this parade of tempting seasonal
treats.
Gorgeous is the word to describe his presentation of foie gras,
dates and celery, cutting edge food that offers welcome bits of bliss.
A finale of generous portions of fresh crab in the shell laced with
tomatoes; followed by sparkling fresh black cod with spring onions
made for a perfect close on a stunning meal. When you go, sample
the fine South African Sauvignon Blanc, Shiny Blade, 368 Nederberg
2003.
Whampoa Club
No. 3 on the Bund, 4th floor
3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai
Telephone: 8621-6321 3737
Web: www.threeonthebund.com and www.jeremeleung.com.
CRYSTAL JADE
What is it about a stack of Chinese bamboo steaming baskets, rich
with the golden-brown color of age, coming down the aisle towards
me that makes me just smile with glee. Dim sum, one of Asia’s
greatest treats of little moist tidbits stuffed with all manner of
delicacies, is undoubtedly one of the world’s greatest culinary
creations.
Sunday lunch in Asia is the perfect moment for a dim sum dumpling
feast so we reserved our table and stood in line at the bustling
Crystal Jade, a modern, casual restaurant in the newly restored Xintiandi
section of old Shanghai.
There are no frills here, but the place is lively and efficient
in the way the Chinese manage to move great numbers of people in
and out of a restaurant with break-neck speed. Quite simply, this
was just some of the finest, most delicate versions of dim sum I’ve
ever sampled. The ultra thin-skinned Shanghai pork dumplings arrived
steaming and beautiful, oozing with rich stock. It took some fancy
dancing with the chopsticks not to break them before they were dipped
in black vinegar, ready to devour with careful, delicate bites. The
thicker-skinned Beijing pork dumplings were sturdier but no less
delicious; while the sublime crab-stuffed dumplings were sheer, feathery,
light and elegant in their simplicity.
I couldn’t stop myself from ordering, as well, the vegetarian
bean curd in spicy sauce, a truly ethereal dish, all pillow-like
and laced with garlic, perfect tiny cubes of carrots, and just the
right dose of hot sauce to send me on my blissful way.
Crystal Jade Restaurant
Unit 2F, 12-AB
House 6-7, South block Xintiandi
Lane 123 Xinye Road
Telephone: 86 21 6385 8572.
JEAN GEORGES
Restaurant Jean Georges is probably the most Must Visit restaurant
in the most Must Visit cities in the world. Like the Whampoa Club,
it is situated in a stately 1920’s-era restored bank building
with sweeping views of the river, now called Huanpu. The restaurant
has been open since last April and the buzz refuses to stop.
French-born chef Jean-George Vongerichten, is a brand-name chef,
with outposts all over the world, including New
York, Las Vegas, London, and Hong Kong. I can’t say we had
a great experience on our Saturday evening visit. Requesting a table
for 8 pm we were told we should come at 9 pm and there would be a
wait at the bar. Sounds like New York city all over again.
Once inside the dark, noisy, glamorous spot, I felt as though I
was in an eerie night club, not a bustling restaurant. We were ushered
from handler to handler, then seated at the bar, handed a complimentary
drink (the waitress was not sure what was in it, but thought maybe
vodka and cranberry juice and something else), offered a bowl full
of greasy popcorn, palate-numbing wasabi-seasoned nuts, and left
on our own. A bit of hand waving got us yet another waitperson who
said maybe our table was ready.
As we entered the dining room it was half empty and it was clear
that an 8 pm table would have been no problem at all.. Clearly that
sort of attitude does not pave the way for a fine and happy dining
experience.
The brief menu is appealing. Jean Georges has one of the most international
palates around, knows his food, and knows what appeals on the plate.
I could have ordered a dozen different appealing dishes, such as
the crackling sea scallops with cucumber mango salad; the steamed
shrimp salad with avocado and tomato; or the lobster in a spiced
broth with a 17th century chutney.
Instead, I chose the crispy crab cake in cucumber and lime, a moist,
generous, delicious starter marred only by the fact that it was served
in an oversized soup bowl that made me feel I was eating out of a
dog bowl. What’s wrong with a normal plate?
Equally welcoming – and served off a normal plate, thank you – was
the crispy fried squid salad, with papaya, cashews, and a spicy sour
dressing. I loved this dish, a perfect counterpoint of breaded baby
squid, perfectly fried, set off by the soothing and smooth cool papaya
slices and the crunchy, salty cashews. Likewise, the king fish sashimi
with a Muscat grape jelly offered true satisfaction. But the veal
tenderloin with smoked chili glaze fell flat: It was badly conceived
and tasted like something that had come off a steam table. Spicy
and interesting? No, just flabby and dull slabs of meat.
All this said, I didn’t feel as though I had to go to Shanghai
to sample this food. It could just as well have been New York, Las
Vegas, London, Hong Kong. That’s the point. Jean Georges has
become a branded chef, just like Armani is the branded designer of
the moment, with a glitzy shop on the ground floor.
Jean Georges
No. 3 on the Bund, 4th floor
3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Shanghai
Telephone 86 21 6321 7733.
GUYI HUNAN RESTAURANT
If you like spice, then reserve a table (and expect to wait in line)
at the modern, simple Hunan restaurant, a large
family place that will nearly sizzle your nostrils just walking in
the door. Not much English is spoken here, but sign language should
get you what you want. And if you like hot, do order the fiery hot
pot chicken with bamboo, arriving sizzling in a big black pot, ready
to devour with bits of steaming rice and beer or the serviceable
French vin de pays d’Oc Chardonnay or Merlot. Pork lovers will
dig into the giant portions of pork ribs coated with chili and garlic.
For starters, try the cold chicken with chili oil (a meal all on
its own), or the soothing pickled cucumbers, there to put out a bit
of the fire.
Guyi Hunan Restaurant
1F Jufu Building
No 87, Fumin Road
Shanghai
Telephone: 62 49 56 28.
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