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Le Rouge Vif
A Classic Bistro in
a Tiny Parisian Village
PARIS -- There are single blocks in Paris that are
a village unto themselves. You could live there, be nourished,
repaired, clothed, dry cleaned, enlightened, and even
uplifted without ever walking more than a few steps.
The single block of the Rue de Verneuil – between
Rue du Bac and Rue de Poitiers – is a bit like
that.
Within a few short steps you’ll find a butcher,
a cheese shop, a convenience store, a tile shop, an electric
store, several antique shops, a fireplace store, a boutique
that specializes in trompe l’oeil porcelain, a
Russian restaurant, a café, a Vietnamese restaurant,
and a little 42-seat bistro called Le Rouge Vif.
Wander into this cozy, embraceable bistro any time of
day or night and you’ll find owner Patrick Rousseau
racing about like a speed demon, sporting a bright red
tie, spectacles, and a level of energy that knows no
bounds. A bit like a modern-day Fernandel, he is there
to animate a dining room that needs little help of its
own. With a model modern bistro décor – sporty
wicker café chairs, tables of bright tiles and
wood, exposed stone walls, wooden floors that seem to
make just the right sound as Rousseau runs about, and
a tiny oak bar at the entrance – Le Rouge Vif is
clearly a home away from home for many on the street
and surrounding blocks.
He’s been there since 1995, transforming an old
stable into a viable restaurant. With
his charming wife Nida aiding in service,
and sometimes assisted by their 14-month-old
daughter, Chara, Rousseau aims to create
a simple, traditional French bistro,
and does it with flair. The food is
classic, with daily specials such as
pork and lentils or boeuf bourguignon,
with some modern fare as the famed
tiny ravioli de Royans bathed in cream
and herbs. On a recent evening, we
feasted on perfectly marinated fresh anchovies and meaty
whole roasted bar (sea bass), as well as a fine salad
of thickly sliced, marinated salmon on a bed of potatoes.
Specials appear on the blackboard that’s carried
from the street into this tiny establishment, and change
about every two weeks. At lunch, the single 18-€ menu – everyone
eats the same thing – allows for swift, efficient
service. Wines change almost every day, and usually include
about 7 or 8 specials -- priced from about 26 to 38 euros – from
all over France, including Bordeaux, Côtes-du-Rhone,
the southeast, as well as Burgundy. We enjoyed a Jean
Luc Colombo pure syrah vin de pays Rhodaniens, an easy-drinking
wine from clearly young vines, but satisfying and wholesome
nonetheless.
Le Rouge Vif
48, rue de Verneuil
Paris 7
Telephone 01 42 86 81 87
Fax: 01 42 86 81 87
Closed Saturday and Sunday .Credit card: Visa.
18-€ lunch menu; Dinner a la carte, about 35 euros,
including service but not wine.
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