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Two New Left Bank Casuals
PARIS -- Is there a better symbol of French gastronomy
than a simple, sublime, classic roast chicken? Golden,
fragrant, its skin crisp and crackling, the humble
poulet rotie is one of the world’s greatest dishes,
one that can stand on its own or serve as a soothing
escort to all manner of potatoes, crying out to be
paired with a red wine of some stature.
In comes Guy Savoy, once again, to show us the way.
His newest endeavor in the Parisian restaurant world
is a remake of one of the city’s older restaurants – the
Left Bank Atelier Maitre Albert – a warming spot
with a giant fireplace at one end, a modern rotisserie
at the other. Along with chef Emmanuel Monsallier and
director Laurent Jacquet, Savoy has managed once again
to figure out what we want today, and deliver.
Walking in after the opera late one Saturday night,
the place felt as though it had been open for decades,
as tables for two, for four, for ten diners filled
the room with sounds of fun and good times. The brief
menu includes some Savoy classics – such as my
ever favorite huitre en nage, or chilled oysters in
a bed of soothing oyster jelly -– and of course
that golden rotisserie chicken, teamed up with a warming
potato purée. Daily specials might include a
perfect roasted duck and a potato gratin (with potatoes
too thinly sliced for my taste).
The wine list offers some old favorites such as the
fruity, lively Savigny les Beaune from Simon Bize (the
2000 priced at 47 €) or Jean Noel Gagnard’s
sterling red Chassagne Montrachet (the 1999 priced
at 49 €) both perfect for pairing with poultry.
Another plus is that the restaurant’s hours
fit all lifestyles, open evenings only, Monday through
Wednesday from 6:30 to 11:30, Thursday through Saturday,
6:30 to 1 am.
Another Left Bank newcomer worth visiting is Au Gourmand,
a tiny restaurant the size of a railroad car just across
from the Luxembourg Gardens. Chef Christian Courgeau
and partner Hervé de Libouton offer an unpretentious,
carefully conceived little spot that’s run with
care and attention. There is a single, 33 € dinner
menu with changing daily specials that might include
a brilliant starter of two fresh Brittany langoustines
dusted with coarsely chopped pistachios and served
with a tiny tangle of greens (a bit too salty for my
palate) or a superb main course of a thick, giant pork
chop – cote de cochon – cooked rare, a
delight. I also loved the pairing of filet of dorade
set upon a bed of crushed potatoes. The fish and potatoes
had the very same texture, yet stood out on their own
in the most soothing way.
If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the pain
perdue aux cerises, classic French toast paired with
super sweet cherries and a dollop of pistachio ice
cream.
Atelier Maître Albert
1, rue Maître Albert
Paris 5
Telephone 01 56 81 30 01 Fax 01 53 10 83 23
All major credit cards. Open dinner only, Monday
through Saturday. A la carte, about 40 euros per
person, including service but not wine.
Au Gourmand
22 rue du Vaugirard
Paris 6
Tel/Fax 0l 43 26 26 45
All major credit cards. Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Lunch menus at 22 and 29 euros, dinner at 33 euros,
including service but not wine.
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