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A Robuchon Revolution, A Return
PARIS -- One common trait among very creative and
very successful people is the ability to constantly
reinvent themselves. Chef Joel Robuchon – who “retired” from
the restaurant business but not the food business in
1996 -- is back in all his glory.
If you are someone like Robuchon, the reinvention
is a good thing. Particularly with chefs, one becomes
easily bored with delivering their 10 Greatest Hits
day after day, as I am sure they do, too.
Robuchon “retired” at the top of his game.
He said goodbye before we were ready for him to go.
He knew he was generally considered the best chef in
the world, and decided to leave on his own terms.
He is back, with a restaurant that is new, a concept
that is new, a look that is new. At L’Atelier
de Joel Robuchon, the kitchen workshop comes alive.
No more stern maitre d in starched white shirt, bow
tie and formal black suit. No more tables or starched
linens, snooty sommeliers who hold the wine list at
arm’s length. This is 2003, Europe, and JR is
reinventing what it means to dine out.
There is just room for 42 diners, all seated at oversized
and comfortable red leather stools, with plenty of
room to dangle your feet at the bar. The décor
is all black and red and stainless, with real food
assembled like still lives throughout the dining room.
Chefs are in black, not white, the staff is bright
red. You sit face to face with the sommelier, the wait
staff, with JR himself, who wanders by to see what
everyone has ordered, and wants to know if it pleases.
Here he is, the timid one, the chef who NEVER ever
emerged from the kitchen for all those years, never
went table to table in the dining room as chefs have
done for so many years.
The kitchen itself is “open” but discreetly
so. Ever since the day he left his eponymous restaurant
on Avenue Raymond Poincairé Robuchon has been
plotting and dreaming of this restaurant . Cleverly,
he took on restaurant consulting assignments and carefully
placed his top men in place: Sommelier Antoine Hernandez
and chef Erick Lecerf at the Astor, where they achieved
two Michelin stars. Philippe Braun, at Laurent, where
he achieved two Michelin stars. The fourth chef, Eric
Bouchenoire, remained at his side as Robuchon, they
are all equal partners in the affair.
And the food: It’s a something for everyone
menu, a world menu, filled with the new and the daring,
the tried and true, comfort food and some of the dishes
he made most famous. On opening night, May 5, we began
with a trip down memory lane, with a few carefully
prepared servings of his famed crème de choufleur
aux huitres, creamy, sweet, and memorable. But the
dish had a new look: Rather than being served in porcelain
tea-cup sized bowls, a clear martini glass did the
trick.
Everywhere, there are new and different looks of china,
glass, some imported from Japan, everything diminutive
in size.
Robuchon takes influence from Spain, where he spends
his time off, and so there are lots of dishes “a
la plancha” or cooked right on a fiery hot griddle,
such as oversized langoustines seasoned with coarse
salt. There is gaspacho and paper-thin sliced ham from
Spain, spaghetti carbonara and an outstanding Vitello
tomato from Italy, steak tartare and frites “bonne-maman” from
France.
Robuchon classics -- such as his merlan frit Colbert
(deep fried whiting), look just as welcome and at home
seated at a stool as at a stiffly starched linen-covered
table.
Perhaps what’s best is the ambience. The great
sounds of a lively bistro, yet everyone is talking,
making friends with the stranger who sat down next
to you a few minutes ago. Robuchon wants to break the
mold of the formal restaurant, bring quality to more
casual dining.
Prices are reasonable, and one can come in for a simple
serving of gaspacho at 6 €, then a giant spring
vegetable salad for 20 €. Or, one can have a multicourse
meal, beginning with two or three tapas style starters – such
as fresh avocado rolled around spoonfuls of crabmeat
or irresistible sweetbreads decorated with fresh bay
leaves and served with a lovely rendition of Swiss
chard, a single wilted leaf wrapped around crunchy
stalks, bathed in a creamy white sauce. Lamb, beef,
veal, tuna and fresh cod make up the main course offerings.
During these opening days, no reservations are being
accepted. And, bravo, there is no smoking allowed in
the restaurant, ever.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
5, rue de Montalembert
Paris 7
Telephone: 01 42 22 56 56
All major credit cards.
A la carte, about 50 € per person, including
service but not wine. Open daily from 11:30 am
to 3:30 pm
and 6:30 pm to midnight.
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