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Fine Bistro Dining at Delicious Prices
PARIS -- The newest crop of small Paris bistros offers
some truly fine bargains, as well a cuisine that is
totally modern yet wed to classic traditions. One of
the handsomest “remakes” is La Grande Rue,
located in the 15th arrondissement on the premises
of the old Chez Pierre.
Here, chef Emmanuel Billaud – who studied with
both Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducasse -- is turning
out some pretty fine fare at totally delicious prices.
The dining room is adorable – everything is as
it was in the 1930’s, down to the double-faced
clock, bentwood chairs and Art Deco patterned tile
floors. But a fresh coat of paint, canning jars filled
with goodies as appetizing décor and nice crisp
linens give it a totally refreshing air.
This is also one restaurant that not only asks whether
you want to dine in the smoking or non-smoking section,
but they put the non-smokers in the front of the room,
the prettiest part of the tiny bistro.
While walking to the restaurant I thought “I
hope they have pasta tonight,” and sure enough,
my wish was granted. Those tiny and wonderful ravioles
de Royans from the south of France are bathed in the
richest, most golden of broths. Equally good – though
not one that would stun a true Italian – was
the creamy risotto, bathed in an herb-rich sauce.
The fish selections – a turbot and a bar – were
good but not great. I had the feeling the fish was
just not as fresh as it might have been. But the day
was saved by the most delicious and most perfect lemon
tart I have tasted in years. Strange how dessert fashion
seems have pushed the classic, puckery lemon tart off
the bistro menu. Thanks, chef, for bringing it back.
The wine list is tiny but the St Chinian – always
a great buy – was just right at 21 francs a bottle.
Le Timbre
It’s just the size of a postage stamp, so why
not name the restaurant Timbre! Restaurants don’t
get much smaller than this one, a single simple room
with space for no more than 20 diners. Le Timbre in
fact reminds one of the famed La Merenda in Nice, where
diners perch on stools, elbow to elbow and watch the
chef cook in the miniscule kitchen at the back of the
room. Le Timbre is always jam-packed and has the kind
of cheap and cheerful, let’s play restaurant
air. But there is nothing amateurish about the fine
and honest bistro fare, with just the proper modern
touch. Owner Christopher Wright keeps himself super-busy
in the dining room, and one may have to wait a bit
for service, so be forewarned.
Le Timbre has one custom that I applaud heartily and
wish other restaurants would adopt: As soon as you
are seated at the table Christopher brings you a complimentary
glass of wine, on our last visit it was a welcome glass
of chilled sauvignon blanc. What an easy way for a
restaurant to win friends and increase the diner’s
patience level!
I adored the ham and lentil salad, a pretty, molded
round of lentils set in the center of the plate, with
a thick slice of Spanish ham set atop it. There were
also tiny cubes of ham laced through the lentils, making
for a hearty, well-seasoned dish. Another starter – a
warm curried beet soup with a dollop of crème
fraiche atop it – was a pleasant surprise.
I had a ringside seat into the tiny kitchen, so even
before ordering I had a chance to check out the day’s
menu. The plump seared and roasted pigeon looked delicious,
so I opted for this perfectly rosy and moist poultry
teamed up with lots of buttery cabbage. Equally honest
was the pan-fried Auvergnat sausages served with a
fine parsnip purée and a touch of green salad.
The baguettes are delicious, the homemade millefeuille
is worth a return visit, and on the menu you’ll
fine Michel Richaud’s fine wines from Cairanne.
Who could ask for more?
La Grande Rue
117 rue des Vaugirard
Paris 15
Telephone: 01 47 34 96 12
Closed Sunday, Monday, and August.
Menu at 27.50 €. Credit card: Visa A la carte,
28 to 35 euros, including service but not wine.
Le Timbre
3 Rue Sainte Beuve
Paris 6
Telephone: 01 45 49 10 40
Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday.
Credit card: Visa. About 30 euros a person, including
service but not wine.
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