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Quiet Trends of Paris
PARIS – As trends go, the Parisian gastronomic
Richter scale is always rather faint. Thank goodness.
Change is slow but sure in this capital. If there is
a current trend it is toward chefs doing what they want
to do, spreading their wings as feel need.
Like Flora Mikula a few months ago (she moved from
a crowded bistro space to in the 7th to a perfectly
posh spot across from the Hotel George V) chef Catherine
Guerraz left her small and intimate bistro near the
Galleries Lafayette and took over the space formerly
occupied by Guy Savoy’s Cote Sud.
She clearly wanted more space, a touch more graciousness
and a chance to expand her already solid bistro-style
repertoire.
A recent dinner here receives mixed reviews. While
the food is right on target service ranged from totally
inept to absolutely perfect, depending upon the person
doing the serving. Orders were totally confused, we
waited forever a touch of attention early on, and they
were out of the wine we ordered. One hopes we can blame
this on first month jitters, but the entire dining room
staff needs to be corralled and taught to coordinate
their moves.
As to the food the first of season scallops from Erquy
were sweet super-fresh, and the raviolis of langoustines
with tarragon made me one happy diner. Nothing rivals
langoustines for their luxurious texture and unique,
faintly nutty flavor. But the dish that made we swoon
was the civet de sanglier, a glistening wild boar stew
with just the right touch of gaminess, chewy and moist
morsels of meat braised to a gentle tenderness. Embellished
with a golden polenta galette and washed down with a
delicate Santenay (the 2000 Les Gravieres from Domaine
de la Pousse d’Or) the trio saved what might have
been a sorry night indeed.
Alain Ducasse seems to be everywhere in the world today,
and is about to place a foot in every arrondissement
of Paris. His latest takeover – if you want to
call it that – is the redo of one of Paris’
most classic bistros, Aux Lyonnais, near the French
stock exchange, or Bourse. Along with partner Thierry
De La Brose (owner of the renowned L’Ami Louis)
he has done a fine job.
The 1890’s bistro – a classic Lyonnais style
bistro with zinc bar, bright floral tiles and colorful
deep red façade --- could serve as a museum piece
or film set.
In short, if you have a gram of nostalgia in you, you
will love this place. The food here is convincing and
gently re-tooled. All the classic and roborative dishes
of Lyon are there: the fragrant, chunky sabodet, or
pork sausage; the salad of frisee, lardoons, herring
and sheep’s feet; tablier de sapeur, or tripe that
is marinated, breaded, and grilled; not to mention the
famed Saint Marcellin cheese made most famous in the
city of Lyon.
I don’t even mind that they tinkered a bit, for
the flavors here are full and honest. I adored the remake
of the classic sabodet, a strong and earthy sausage
made with pig’s head and skin, one that warms the
insides of a cold winter’s day. Rather than plopping
the sausage in a pool of rich sauce, the venerable sausage
is poached gently in broth, covered with a layer of
potatoes, and perfumed with a lightened sauce gribiche,
or mayonnaise of laced with capers, cornichons, and
herbs.
Equally appealing is the classic roast chicken, garnished
with tomatoes, mushrooms and onions, and deglazed with
the traditional touch of red wine vinegar. The wine
list is a bit pricey for a bistro. But do as they do
in Lyon and stick with cru Beaujolais and you should
do just fine, sticking with the Fleurie, Brouilly, Chiroubles
or Moulin-a-Vent, all priced at around 30 €.
Chez Catherine
3 rue Berryer
Paris 75008
Telephone 01
40 76 01 40
Fax: 01 40 76 03 96.
Closed Sunday and Monday. All major credit cards.
A la carte, 50 euros, including service but not wine.
Aux Lyonnais
32 rue Saint Marc
Paris 75002
Tel: 01 42
9 65 04
Fax: 01 42 97 42 95
Closed all day Sunday and Monday lunch. 28 €
menu, including service but not wine. A la carte, 40
euros, including service but not wine.
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