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When modern meets classic in Bordeaux
 BORDEAUX
--- This will not be the last time you will hear of
Yves Gravelier and the charming, modern, restaurant
that bears his name. If I sit down and think of qualities
I personally look for as a diner, Gravelier seems to
pack many into a single meal: The food is modern yet
bears all the best of the Classic French Touch. The
décor is bright – lime greens and tangerine
---- and says fun with a capital F. You feel as though
you are right place, right time.
All that would be nothing if Gravelier did not have
such fine schooling (Fredy Girardet, Jacques Chibois
and Alain Senderens) and an understanding palate. This
is food that is inventive as well as attentive: In a
single dish the 41-year-old chef manages to surprise
and please, offer a course in classic French cuisine,
add an
Asian touch, and make it all very, very pretty. Best
of all, this man understands two essential elements
of cuisine: texture and acidity. We don’t think
enough about textures in our food, yet Gravelier understands
the human response to a creamy coating of the tongue
that plays against a fine bit of crunch. He also gets
the importance of acidity in a meal, the very quality
that makes us walk out of a restaurant feeling light
as a feather. All this for bargain-priced menus at 24,
32 and 40 euros.
My favorite dish here is his starter of grilled pigeon,
served with its liver and a deliciously rich red sauce.
I’ve had the combination many a time, and savoring
it made me think of what can make such a difference
when dining in a restaurant that is new to us: that
combination of familiarity and surprise. Here, the portion
was small and just enough to tease. The taste was pure,
classic, and yet was it the fact that it arrived on
a plate that might have been rectangular, or square,
that made it taste so different? (I once dined with
a friend who could not eat in restaurants that served
food off of anything other than a round plate….)
Another hit was his 12-hour lamb, here served as a
moist cake made up of potatoes and long-cooked lamb
topped with rare-cooked lamb nuggets, all served with
green asparagus and a brilliant green asparagus sauce.
Desserts were a delight, especially the mix of crispy
chocolate and chocolate mousse accompanied by a duet
of cherry treats; and the raspberry crepe soufflé.
Service here is attentive, and managed by Gravelier’s
wife, Anne-Marie, the daughter of none other than noted
French chef Pierre Troisgros.
Nothing is more fear-inducing than returning to a favorite
restaurant after a long absence. Fond memories seem
to be embellished with time, and it is actually very
hard for most places to live up to those skewed recollections.
I have been dining at the warming, fragrant Bordeaux
bistro La Tupina for more than 20 years and have never
been disappointed. My last visit was no different, and
in fact was better than my memory permitted. Everything
we sampled at the hand of Jean-Pierre Xiradakis had
that magic touch, food with a rich, golden glow, and
deep, true flavors. From fat white asparagus teamed
up with fresh morels, to giant golden fried potatoes,
and on to a fabulous duck carpaccio smothered in deliciously
acidic shallot vinaigrette, the food spoke of France’s
famed southwest. Don’t miss the hauntingly rich
macaronade --- gigantic rigatoni tossed with foie gras
and wild mushrooms – or the fare cooked in front
of the roaring fire -- chicken, lamb, beef, you name
it.
Gravelier
114 cours Verdun
33000 Bordeaux
tel: 05 56 48 17 15
Fax: 05 56 51 96 07.
Credit cards: American Express, Diners Club, Visa.
Closed Saturday lunch, all day Sunday, and Monday lunch.
18.30 euro lunch menu, dinner menus at 24, 32, and 40
euros; a la carte from 37 to 44 euros, including service
but not wine.
La Tupina
6 rue Porte de la Monnaie
33000 Bordeaux
tel: 05 56 91 56 37.
Fax: 05 56 31 92 11.
Email: latupina@latupina.com
Web: www.latupina.com
Weekday lunch menu at 15.50 euros; lunch menu at
30 euros. Seasonal lunch and dinner menu at 50 euros.
A la carte, 31.50 to 75 euros, including service but
not wine.
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