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Savoring an Outdoor Meal in Paris Garden
and Sidewalk Terraces Enrich the Last Days of Summer
I know few dining pleasures anywhere in the world as
exquisite as an outdoor meal in Paris. On those rare
occasions when the weather is right and you can secure
a table, dining on a restaurant's terrace in this city
cannot be surpassed.
I hit the jackpot a few weeks ago with four outdoor
nights in a row - a record for me. My all-time favorite
terrace in Paris is Laurent, the pastel-pink 19th-century
hunting lodge in the gardens of the Champs-Elysees.
Here, the talented chef Philippe Braun (with the consulting
assistance of Joel Robuchon) has created a menu of sheer
simplicity with a certain touch of genius. The frosting
on the cake is the fabulous service provided by Philippe
Bourguignon and Patrick Lair.
Opt for the Menu Pavillon - well-priced at 390 francs
($55). Begin with the veal-stuffed ravioli teamed with
the most delicious artichokes, a marvelous dish that
is made for light, summertime eating. The thinnest pasta
encases veal knuckle that has been cooked to a melting
tenderness. The flavorful juices from the roasting serve
as a lean, exquisite sauce.
And what better to follow than a spit-roasted Bresse
chicken, crisp pommes soufflees and a green salad filled
with a tangle of herbs. The chicken is moist, the skin
is crisp, the potatoes golden and irresistible.
Dessert awaits - a fine lemon macaroon paired with
fraises des bois, tiny wild strawberries. Or order a
sweet compote of fresh strawberries set off by a lactic,
acidic sorbet au fromage blanc.
On the a la carte menu, my favorites included the delightful
fresh Brittany langoustines wrapped in Moroccan feuille
de brick pastry and expertly deep-fried, served in a
rich basil sauce with a gentle green salad. I crave
Braun's elegant roast turbot, simplicity at its best,
served with earthy, baby potatoes and new onions.
Lair worked his magic one more time, suggesting two
outstanding wines: a 1998 Condrieu from Francois Villard,
an almost lavish wine with beautiful structure, and
a rare, much sought after Coteaux du Languedoc, 1994
Clos Syrah Leone, a rich winner with tons of intense,
berry fruitiness.
Laurent
41 Avenue Gabriel
Paris 75008
Tel: 01-42-25-00-39
Fax: 01-45-62-45-21.
Open daily. Credit cards: American Express, Diners Club,
Visa. Menus at 390 to 960 francs. A la carte, 700 to
800 francs.
Of all the modern bistros to open in the past few years,
one of the best in terms of originality and spark is
Dame Jeanne, in the Bastille area.
Service remains slow as molasses but that does not
stop me from returning when I have a chance. The 120-franc
''fruit and vegetable'' menu is a dream, with such starters
as a whole, peeled tomato stuffed with a mixed salad
of steamed vegetables, including carrots, chives, broccoli
and cauliflower tossed in a good vinaigrette.
Next comes a vegetable lasagne: featherlight, and paper-thin
pasta layered with the most wonderful ratatouille -
diced eggplant, zucchini and tomato - topped with the
sheerest dose of cheese. The dish is served in an individual
gratin dish, and comes with a green salad. A la carte
offerings might include gazpacho served in a most original
manner - from a glass beaker on a small white porcelain
tray, with bits of parmesan, herbs and tomatoes as garnish.
A first-rate preparation of simple grilled lamb chops
arrives with a rich potato puree. For wine, I opted
for a 1998 Pic St. Loup, from the Languedoc, a 1998
Chateau de Cazeneuve ''Les Calcaires'' from Andree Leenhart.
The wine appeared harsh at first, but with a little
breathing rounded out the meal wonderfully.
Dame Jeanne
60 Rue de Charonne
Paris 75011
Tel: 01-47-00-37-40
Fax: 01-47-00-37-45.
Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Closed from the end
of August to Sept. 12. Credit card: Visa. Menus at 110,
128 and 168 francs.
Move on to one of my favorite bistros, Au Bon Accueil,
with its elbow-to-elbow-tiny sidewalk terrace, a fine
menu and an attractive view of the Eiffel Tower.
Jacques Lacipiere, the owner, is clearly working to
upgrade the level of food offered at this jam-packed
restaurant and let's hope he succeeds. The food is becoming
more sophisticated without losing any of its original
charm. On the 175-franc ($24) menu you might find a
rich and creamily delicious risotto flavored with tiny,
woodsy girolles - chanterelles - a Parmesan cookie and
plenty of minced chives, or roasted leg and shoulder
of lamb from France's Pauillac region, served with a
rich rosemary-infused juice.
Desserts include a fine grapefruit-enhanced creme br?lee
and a heavenly moelleux au chocolat served with fresh
raspberries and strawberries. A la carte offerings include
a fabulous turbot steamed with an avalanche of herbs,
accompanied by a warm rendition of the popular a la
grecque vegetable preparation, including lightly pickled
carrots, onions and mushrooms.
Au Bon Accueil
14 Rue de Monttessuy
Paris 75007
Tel: 01-47-05-46-11.
Closed Saturday and Sunday. Credit card: Visa. Menu
at 175 francs. A la carte, 280 to 350 francs.
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