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Tastes of Provence
There are two restaurants in Provence that never seem
to let me down. For nearly 20 years, La Beaugraviere
and Le Bistrot du Paradou have been the sites of some
of my finest gastronomic memories, and recent visits
were no exception.
The black truffle season is almost over, but for the
next month you should be able to sample Guy Jullien's
creations at his famed Beaugraviere in Mondragon, 14
kilometers (9 miles) from Orange. Current specialties
range from a simple and sublime truffle tartine (an
open-face sandwich layered with giant slices of fragrant
raw truffles) to a memorable salad of nutty ratte potatoes
layered with a thick coating of truffles.
Main course offerings include a featherlight portion
of cannelloni stuffed with chicken, finely chopped mushrooms,
and of course more truffles. This should be followed
by a sandwich of warm Saint Marcellin cow's milk cheese
layered with truffles, and then chef Jullien's surprising
truffle ice cream.
Two wines to try with the meal include the hard-to-find
white 1995 Domaine de la Grange des Peres, a rich and
meaty wine that blends all the character of viognier,
bourboulenc and grenache grapes; and the pleasingly
fragrant white Lirac, Domaine de la Mordoree, Cuvee
de la Reine des Bois 1998, a bargain at 160 francs a
bottle.
Friday is aioli day at Le Bistrot du Paradou, the popular
table d'hote restaurant in the heart of Les Baux olive
oil country. Here Mireille Pons works magic in the kitchen
while the outgoing Jean-Louis tends the front of the
house.
The all-you-can-eat aioli feast includes meaty local
snails, Mireille's tender salt cod, potatoes in their
jackets and steamed carrots, and of course plenty of
that rich and golden garlic mayonnaise. Wash it down
with plenty of the house red, and you are in heaven.
La Beaugraviere
RN-7
84430 Mondragon.
Tel: 04-90-40-82-54.
Fax: 04-90-40-91-01.
Closed Sunday dinner. Truffle menus vary from 395 to
700 francs.
Le Bistrot du Paradou
13520 Le Paradou.
Tel: 04-90-54-32-70.
Closed Sunday. Open year-round for lunch; dinner mid
July to Sept. 5. Lunch, 180 francs, including wine.
Reservations suggested.
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