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A Taste of Seaside In a Paris Bistro
PARIS - In a constant effort to reinvent itself, the
Paris food scene brings us yet another welcoming fish
restaurant, this time with the name of Le Bistrot Cote
Mer, the site of one of Michel Rostang's satellite bistros.
Rostang has put his daughter, Caroline, in charge,
and if a very successful recent visit is proof, she
is off to a flying start as a restaurateur. The small,
narrow bistro - painted in brilliant seaside tones of
yellow and blue - has everything going for it: a lovely
fish menu that offers food that is unusual but far from
wacky, and a young, cheerful and well-informed staff.
The decor has just enough history for nostalgia buffs,
with warm and colorful tile floors, newly upholstered
1930s bistro chairs and marble-top tables that shine
with the patina of age.
I can't tell you the number of times I examine a menu
and have a hard time finding something I really want
to eat at that moment. Not the case with Cote Mer's
selections. You want it all. From the fresh, briny plump
Belon oysters, served with a thick slice of toasted
sourdough bread and a pat of salted butter set on a
bed of seaweed, to the marvelous pasta salad and a well-conceived
tartare.
The famed ravioles de Royans - tiny herb and cheese-filled
pasta from the Rhone-Alps region- have become a favorite
Paris bistro ingredient. They are crowd-pleasers and
lend themselves to endless variations. Here the tender
pasta is turned into a salad, tossed warm with a tangle
of well- dressed greens and generous chunks of warm,
tender lobster, well priced at 75 francs ($11) a portion.
It was so good, we thought of reordering the salad for
dessert.
Equally appealing is the hache of sea bream and salmon,
sparkling fresh cubes of raw fish tossed with a vinaigrette
and herbs and teamed up with paper-thin toasted crackers.
But the best was the daily special of whole grilled
sea bass, presented to diners both before and after
cooking, then carefully filleted tableside. The huge
sea bass easily serves two hearty eaters, with its superbly
moist, chewy fresh sea flavor. A side order of sizzling
hot molded tian - a Mediterranean mix of eggplant, tomatoes
and zucchini - makes you want to head straight for the
sun and the sea.
Scallop lovers should go for the coquilles Saint-Jacques
roasted in their shells with a melange of cubed vegetables
and served with an intriguing preparation of rice. Half
the rice was fried to a fragrant, golden crispness,
then tossed with steamed rice, making for a crackling
combination and providing the palate with a welcome
crunch.
The pure sauvignon blanc Quincy from Jacques Siret
was a fine accompaniment, and well priced at 140 francs.
The only disappointment of the evening was the bland,
almost watery pots de chocolat, redeemed by a thin rectangle
of tarte feuilletee.
Le Bistro Cote Mer
16 Boulevard Saint-Germain
Paris 75005.
Tel: 01-43-54-59-10.
Fax: 01-43-29-02-08.
Open daily. Most major credit cards accepted. About
250 francs a person, including service but not wine.
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