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Bruno Gendarmes' Bistrot de l'Etoile Niel
Paris -- The concept of the typical Parisian neighborhood
bistro - a place you might find yourself two or three
nights a week, always among friends - may appear to
be a dinosaur, but not quite. One place that fits the
bill in the most classic and contemporary sense is Bruno
Gendarmes' Bistrot de l'Etoile Niel.
Gendarmes is a Guy Savoy acolyte, former partner in
the Niel operation, and now full-time owner of this
warm, cozy, intimate bistro that day after day, night
after night, serves simple fare that bridges the gap
between classic and modern bistro fare.
For the autumn, this 10 year old bistro is, in fact,
replaying the "classics" of the last ten years.
As a choice for the first course, you'll find everything
from the traditional pork terrine served with a salad
of lamb's lettuce and turnips, to the artichoke soup
punctuated by bits of foie gras. But my favorites include
both the creamy risotto studded with a variety of shellfish,
surrounded with a brilliant emulsion of ginger and lime;
and the pan-fried mix of wild mushrooms paired with
tiny "petit gris" snails, parsley juice and
irresistible dried garlic chips. Like just about everything
that Gendarmes turns out, the food has flavor, depth,
intensity and purpose. And I like the fact that he surprises
us with tastes of ginger and lime, fresh coriander and
a confit of lemon. Each, in its own way, suits us just
fine on a cool autumn day.
With its mixture of bare wooden floors and 1930's tiles,
Art Deco style bistro chairs, chocolate-colored walls
and and a fine sidewalk terrace, it's a fun, nice, easy
kind of place where everyone seems to be there for a
good time, and has it.
Main courses here are welcoming and varied. Fish lovers
will rave over the filet of St Pierre (oops, a bit too
salty on my last visit) served with deliciously decadent
potatoes crushed with butter and herbs; while poultry
mavens will love the chicken fricassée served
with a delightful celery root purée enlivened
by fresh coriander and gentle bits of lemon confit.
Heartier fare here includes swoonable portions of crépinette
de joues et pieds de porc (pork feet and cheeks wrapped
in caul fat) teamed up with a ragout of penne pasta,
all anointed with a rich sage-infused sauce.
And if none of this hits the spot, there are the Monday
through Saturday daily specials, ranging from roast
chicken to veal kidneys, salt cod purée or roast
leg of lamb.
And for dessert, one need look no further than their
famed warm chocolate cake, served with a rich and soothing
vanilla ice cream.
Bistrot de l'Etoile Niel
75 Avenue Niel
75017 Paris
Tel: 01 42 27 88 44
Fax: 01 42 27 32 12.
Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Credit cards: American
Express, Diners Club, Visa. Menus at 148 and 175 francs.
A la carte, 220 to 300 francs, including service but
not wine.
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