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A Paris Family Bistro Offers Winter Cheer
PARIS - As dining at all levels becomes more international,
less national, personal and unique, the more we welcome
and embrace such family bistros as the several-month-old
L'Equitable, on a little street at the southern edge
of the fifth arrondissement.
Yves Mutin, who spent time at the Jules Verne, has
taken over the former Ferme du Perigord, one of those
small family bistros that have that carefree 1950s air,
with broad dark-beamed ceilings and just enough space
to make you feel cozy.
From the second you walk in the door, the welcome and
the ambience make you feel you've been here before and
know you'll be back. There's a lovely naivete and charm
about it all. You almost can't believe that this is
a new restaurant, and that it is 2000.
Small and perfect Mutin's small but well-conceived
bargain-price menu is full of delights. From the unusual
poached eggs in a mushroom cream sauce teamed up with
toast fingers spread with a delightful foie gras, to
the ultrafresh, meaty scallops in their shells on a
bed of a creamy julienne of Belgian endive, the chef
gets it right all along the way.
One daily special - fresh morsels of monkfish paired
with a warm vinaigrette and a touch of sun-dried tomatoes
(yes, they're back but here used judiciously and deliciously)
- was the perfect winter starter, accompanied by a delicate
fennel mousse and a tiny tangle of greens.
Main courses were equally pleasing, including moist
portions of roasted chicken with black olives and a
vibrant Swiss chard and a warming pot au feu of veal
(with a few tough and fibrous bits of meat hidden in
the moist and tender ones) swimming in a finely seasoned
chervil cream. A fine roast veal was the special of
the day.
Highlights on the 168-franc ($25) dinner menu included
such starters as oxtail with wild girolles; a fricassee
of snails with a potato mousseline, and a cold rabbit
terrine. Other main course selections varied from roast
kidneys with mustard to a rack of lamb with sage risotto.
There is a good selection of wines priced under 200
francs, including Marc Bredif's 1998 Chinon at 125 francs.
Bravo, Mr. Mutin. Thanks for working to keep Paris
the Paris we love. And as the name suggests, a place
that is fair, just and equitable.
L'Equitable
1 Rue Fosses-Saint- Marcel
Paris 75005.
Tel: 01-43-31-69-20
fax: 01-43-37-85-52.
Closed for Saturday lunch; open Sunday lunch, and closed
Sunday night and all day Monday. 135-franc weekday lunch
menu; 168-franc dinner menu. All major credit cards.
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