|
A Taste of Provence From a Rising Star
Maturity and confidence are great traits to witness
anytime, anywhere. Even better when you happen to be
on the receiving end, and the talented person happens
to be a chef. Flora Mikula - certainly one of the rising
stars of modern French cuisine -shines with clear brilliance,
with a newly decorated Left Bank restaurant and more
verve and stamina than ever.
Unquestionably, she is among the most talented female
chefs in Paris, and in all of France. When Mikula speaks,
her broad, expressive face lights up like an unfurling
flower, and you can see, feel, taste that energy and
enthusiasm with every dish, every bite of her authentic,
Provencal-inspired cuisine.
Wisely, she has invested time in kitchens in her native
Provence, in London and New York before making her way
into the kitchen of Alain Passard's Arpege. On her own
for the past three years, she is now showing at Les
Olivades that she, too, has what it takes.
Right now, everything from meaty clams to her signature
confit of quail,
to sweet farm-raised pork to original pots de creme
grace her original, tantalizing menu. If you haven't
already tried Mikula's caille confite, plump quail simmered
to moist tenderness in bath of extra-virgin olive oil
(rather than the traditional goose or duck fat of France's
southwest), by all means go for it.
On a recent night, she paired the quail with tiny cubes
of green apples
for a hint of acid, a showering of freshly toasted pine
nuts for crunch and an almost smoky essence, all accented
by an ever so faint touch of black truffle oil.
It would be nearly impossible to improve upon her almond-infused
amandes gratinees, meaty clams (known as almonds of
the sea) dotted with finely ground almonds and grilled
to a warm tenderness. A hint of fresh coriander expanded
the impact of the shellfish-almond duo, while a mix
of mushrooms, onions and spinach (a modern approach
to a la grecque) softened the flavors and added a garden-fresh
edge.
Spare-rib lovers should adore her approach to an American
favorite, with her travers de cochon fermier roti au
miel et aux epices, unfatty ribs so meaty, chewy and
tender, bathed in a sweet glistening sauce of honey
and spices, so shiny you want to don ice skates and
go for a spin.
Horn of plenty Desserts are full of hope and promise,
with an original
and welcome corne d'abondance, a horn-of-plenty pastry
cone filled strawberries and rhubarb and teamed up with
a fine cinnamon ice cream.
Equally delicious was the pots de creme duo, one with
a bright, licorice-rich anise flavor and the other infused
with the flavors of rosemary and thyme. Fresh-from-the-oven
madeleines and Bordeaux-inspired vanilla muffins, or
canneles, won hearts and warmed spirits.
Other specialties to look forward to here include goat's
cheese from
Mikula's native Nimes - picodon - aged in olive oil
and perfumed with wild herbs; tender roasted baby lamb;
breast of guinea hen with olives and polenta, and a
well-priced regional wine list.
Les Olivades,
41 Avenue de Segur,
Paris 7
Telephone 01-47-83-70-09, fax: 01-42-73-04-75.
Credit cards: American Express, Mastercard, Visa. Closed
Saturday lunch, all day Sunday, Monday lunch and two
weeks in August. Menus at 179 and 250 francs ($30 and
$38); a la carte, 250 francs; lunch menu at 130 francs.
|
