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Autumn Delights Savoring the Season
At Two Old Haunts
PARIS - Ask most chefs and they will say autumn is
their favorite season at the stove. The avalanche of
wild mushrooms, abundance of game, plentitude of fall
apples, quince, figs and Jerusalem artichokes, the sparkling
freshness of cold-water fish and shellfish such as oysters
and scallops, all make this season’s cooking a
joy.
Not to mention ever-growing appetites to complement
the bounty.
Recent visits to two old favorites unearthed some excellent
seasonal meals. The simple thought of game and mushrooms
in Paris turns into a seasonal pilgrimage to my all-time
favorite city game restaurant, Le Petit Marguery, run
by the always energetic Cousin brothers, Alain in the
dining room and Michel and Jacques at the stove.
Take one look at the old-fashioned, handwritten menu
for this popular neighborhood spot filled with classic
gourmands, and three words come to mind: restorative,
invigorating, fortifying. Right now, there are no fewer
than seven varieties of wild mushrooms, and super-fresh
game, from simply roasted wild duck on a bed of crunchy
cabbage laced with bits of foie gras to young venison
paired with wild rosemary. They don’t forget the
sea, either, with a stunningly simple and satisfying
roasted skate with mustard sauce; fresh oysters on the
half shell from Isigny-sur-Mer; and a remarkably modern
version of raviolis stuffed with fresh scallops in a
wild mushroom sauce. It has been years since I sampled
a souffle that brought me to my knees, but their airy
classic with Grand Marnier did just that.
William Ledeuil remains one of my favorite Paris chefs,
with a spark of creativity that always seems to match
my spirit. A recent tasting menu at the modern and trendy
Les Bookinistes, one of Guy Savoy’s bistros, proved
that autumn is indeed one of his most inventive seasons.
While fresh white beans from Brittany are still in the
market, try his salad of nutty, creamy cocos de Paimpol,
teamed up with wild mushrooms, strips of pungent, candy-like
vieille mimolette cheese, and a few leaves of peppery
arugula. Or, try the surprising minestrone of baby shrimp
and periwinkles, served with toast topped with anchovy
paste and watercress.
Main courses range from a hearty braised veal breast
flanked by mashed sweet potatoes, salty bacon and mushrooms.
For dessert, give in to his warm runny financiers of
chocolate and coffee, anointed with a juice of cherry
liqueur and licorice.
Le Petit Marguery
9 Boulevard du Port Royal
Paris 750013.
tel: 01-43-31-58-59.
Closed Sunday and Monday. Credit cards: American Express,
Diners Club, Visa. Menus at 165 francs (lunch) and 215
francs (dinner).
Les Bookinistes
53 Quai des Grands-Augustin
Paris 75006
tel: 01-43-25-45-94; fax: 01-43-25-23-07.
Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday lunch. All credit cards.
Menus at 140 and 160 francs at lunch, and 180 francs
for Sunday dinner. A la carte, 250 francs.
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