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Soothing Fare in Classic Settings
LONDON--After a few years of total hysteria, hype and
insanity in the food world, this city is returning to
its senses. One can at least sail along into a new sea
of calm and quality.
Pierre Koffmann, long one of my favorite chefs here,
is back on track in a new location, serving up his sensible,
well-thought-out fare that harks back to his southwestern
French roots.
In a large and spacious dining room decorated in pink
and blue pastel tones, Koffmann's La Tante Claire is
all that one looks for in a classic, well-bred place.
(Those looking for shocks and excitement in decor, clientele,
service or food, should look elsewhere.) Guided by a
young, well-informed staff without a gram of ''attitude,''
and seated at tables spaced far enough apart to allow
a sense of privacy, the scene is set for smooth sailing.
For a soothing starter one could do worse than Koffmann's
giant, silken ravioli of langoustines, a single huge
round of pasta wrapped around the sweet, pillow-like
crustaceans, and set upon a bed of crunchy cabbage.
Reminiscent of a Joel Robuchon creation of the early
1980s, it is the sort of contemporary classic that will
be around for a long while, elegant in its purity and
simplicity.
More daring and modern are his seared scallops set
in a shiny sauce of squid ink, accompanied by two sauces,
one of whipped cream laced with red pepper, another
of whipped cream laced with garlic, offering a seasoned
contrast of colors, textures and flavors.
But Koffmann's signature dish, and one not to be missed
even if offal is not your thing, is the pieds de cochon,
or pig's trotters, stuffed with a complex blend of wild
morel mushrooms, chicken breast and veal sweetbreads.
Arriving almost as a gift-wrapped mahogany-toned package,
the pig's trotter's are set in glistening, fragrant
stock.
Although it's a modern creation, it is the sort of
culinary tour-de-force that is to be admired for its
complexity and balance, its mastery of technique and
its ability to induce pure satisfaction.
on to the connaught While still in a traditional mood,
I headed over to the Connaught Hotel, where the restaurant
and grill room continue to win service awards and the
kitchen applause for its care and attention.
Seated in the rather shocking minty-green Grill Room,
I felt like a queen who had just been helped from her
carriage. The well-seasoned French and Italian waiters
have that old posh, debonair quality that makes you
want to lift your pinky and swirl a glass of champagne.
The menu could not be more conservative in the best
sense of the word. Starters of langoustines amoureuses
(really a high-protein seafood salad of langoustines,
shrimp and lobster) and oysters Christian Dior (warm,
cooked with cream, wine and a scattering of black truffles)
set the stage for things to come. The daily special
- the old-fashioned coulibiac of salmon - is a complex,
layered affair that includes salmon, rice, hard-cooked
eggs, crepes, mushrooms and onions wrapped in a pastry
shell and baked. Here it was luscious fare, doused with
a warm butter sauce, pairing perfectly with a simple
white Macon-Villages.
I loved my sole meuniere seche (sole pan-fried in the
usual manner in butter, but served without the cooking
juices), though it was a tad dry and overcooked.
The tarte Tatin - prepared with bland-tasting apples
and a nondescript pastry - was, alas, not on par with
the rest of the visit.
La Tante Claire
The Berkeley Hotel
Wilton Place SW1
Tel: 0171-823-2003
Fax: 0171-823-2001.
Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Most credit cards.
£28 at lunch, a la carte, about £65 for
dinner, including service but not wine.
The Grill Room
The Connaught Hotel
Carlos Place W1
Tel: 0171-499-7070.
Closed Saturday lunch. Credit cards: American Express,
Visa. A la carte, about £70, not including service
or wine.
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