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A Warm Paris Bistro Offers Soothing
Fare
PARIS - Lovers of those old-fashioned Parisian family
bistros should rush right over to Chez Catherine, a
most classic 1930s bistro, where the welcome is warm,
the food is satisfying and the wine list is sure to
cheer on the grayest of Parisian days.
The chef is Catherine Guerraz, a tidy young woman raised
in a restaurant family in France's southwest. Along
with her gentle, outgoing husband, Frederic, she runs
a fine traditional restaurant, with a colorful copper
bar and walls filled with Art Deco mirrors, colorful
patchwork tile floors and bric-a-brac.
On my most recent visit, I feasted on what is one of
the city's best and freshest versions of sole meuniere,
a giant whole sole dusted with flour and browned in
sweet butter. Priced at 125 francs, this is a bargain
worth the detour on its own.
But don't stop there: Try the steaming platter of warming
pasta, tiny ravioles bathed in cream, tossed with mushrooms
and a touch of crisp bacon.
Equally excellent is her cassoulet, here prepared with
soothing white beans, chunks of sausage and earthy portions
of duck confit.
Lovers of the tiny fish known as eperlans, or smelt,
will happily devour the gargantuan platter of deep-fried
fish that arrives hot from the kitchen, needing no more
than a sprinkling of fine sea salt and a few drops of
freshly squeezed lemon juice. I loved, as well, the
soothing rabbit terrine, or compote de lapin, compact,
full-flavored and fresh.
Situated on a drab little street lost behind the Galeries
Lafayette department store, Chez Catherine caters to
a well-heeled and cheery French clientele. They happily
chat across tables, advising newcomers on what's best
on the compact menu.
The wine list is brief, with some reds and whites worth
discovering: Try the 1996 Cotes du Rhone Chateau d'Hugues,
a ruby-red blend that's well priced at 145 francs a
bottle.
We did not order the double-thick pan-fried steak served
with its mind-boggling mountain of fries, but it is
on my list for the next dinner at Chez Catherine, which
will be very soon.
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Chez Catherine, 65 rue de Provence, Paris 9; tel: 01-45-26-72-88.
Credit card: Visa, MasterCard. Closed Saturday, Sunday,
and Monday evening. A la carte, 200 to 250 francs (about
$33 to $42)
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