|
Around the Tables of Australia
The following is a list of the best restaurants visited
during a monthlong tour, with notes on some favorite
dishes.
PERTH
The Loose Box Restaurant, 6825 Great Eastern Highway,
Mundaring. Tel: (61-8) 9295-1787.
If Michelin gave stars in Australia, Alain Fabregues's
The Loose Box would have three. It is the epitome of
French perfection and attention to detail. I loved the
colorful goat cheese, truffle, mushroom, eggplant, tomato
and capsicum terrine for its brilliant flavors and welcoming
texture.
Fraser's, Fraser Avenue, King's Park, West Perth. Tel:
(8) 9481-7100.
Chris Taylor of the welcoming Fraser's, in the center
of a lovely park, offers honest fare. Such dishes as
his char-grilled dhufish fillet with lemon, extra virgin
olive oil and parsley show how the chef wisely allows
perfectly chosen ingredients to speak for themselves.
ADELAIDE
Universal Wine Bar, 285 Rundle St., Adelaide. Tel:
(8) 8232-5000; fax: (8) 8232-5757; e-mail: universal@
portal.net.au
A fine, casual wine bar for sampling the nation's best
wines. Try anything the waiter suggests, or, if they
are on the list that day, go for one of those big Rhone-style
reds, such as the powerful RBJ Theologicum mourvedre
grenache or Charles Melton's Nine Popes, starting with
a lovely light Lenswood sauvignon blanc.
Charlick's Feed Store, Ebenezer Place, East End, Adelaide.
Tel: (8) 8223-7566; fax: (8) 8223-7065.
This new, casual dining spot is owned by Maggie and
Colin Beer, modern pioneers of the Australian food world.
Try the smoked tommy ruffs (sardine-size fish) with
green olive and pickled lemon dressing, and sample alongside
it a glass of the refreshing white Chapel Hill McLaren
Vale verdelho, made from the Portuguese verdelho grape
with overtones of honeysuckle and tropical fruits.
The Grange, Hilton International, Victoria Square,
Adelaide. Tel: (8) 8217-2000.
If you have time for only one meal in Australia, head
for the Grange to sample Malaysian-born Chinese chef
Cheong Liew's shark's-fin pouch in venison consommé,
spiced with tarragon, a dish that is filled with bravery
and brilliance, or his red roasted barramundi with green
chilies, coriander, snow-pea shoots and calamari shavings,
a dish with such genius you won't want to finish it,
for all you'll have left is the memory.
Petaluma Bridgewater Mill, Mount Barker Road, Bridgewater.
Tel: (8) 8339-3422.
This trendy spot just outside Adelaide is run by the
Petaluma winery and showcases its wines. Try the Croser
champagne, as well the fried salt-and-pepper quail with
lime and ginger relish, or the roasted duck breast with
bok choy, kumquats and cinnamon glaze.
SYDNEY
Cicada, 29 Challis Ave., Potts Point, Sydney. Tel:
(61-2) 9358-1255.
Peter Doyle has reached the pinnacle of modern Australian
cooking. His food is seamless, unconventional, balanced
and sensible; I fell in love with his perfect jewel
box of a package: avocado, crab, mint and coriander,
a starter that was like a soothing bath for the palate.
Tetsuya's, 729 Darling St., Rozelle, Sydney. Tel: (2)
9555-1017.
Tetsuya Wakuda is a leader of Australia's fine fusion
cuisine, merging the best of Japanese philosophy and
classical French technique. In a most unassuming setting,
plan on sampling his signature confit of ocean trout
with ocean-trout roe, braised red capsicum, leeks, konbu
seaweed, capers and parsley oil. Think texture, color,
flavor, essence.
Bistro Moncur, the Woollahra Hotel, 116 Queen St.,
Woollahra, Sydney. Tel: (2) 9363-2782.
Damien Pignolet offers great Australian-style French
bistro classics in an embracing, warm setting in one
of Sydney's most chic neighborhoods. Try the vegetable
couscous.
MG Garage. 490 Crown St., Surry Hills, New South Wales.
Tel: (2) 9383-9383.
The new trendy spot, with the Greek-born chef Janni
Kyritsis, is actually in an MG car showroom. Specialties
include guinea fowl baked in clay with pancetta, mushrooms
and barley pilaf, as well as many dishes with a fine,
Middle Eastern touch.
BRISBANE
Two Small Rooms, 517 Milton Road, Toowong, Brisbane.
Tel: (61-7) 3371-5251.
One of the best bets in Brisbane. This warm and charming
spot run by Michael Conrad and the chef David Pugh offers
lovely, simple fare. Try their outstanding mud-crab
omelette with stir-fried vegetables and spicy prawn
sauce.
This is one place where I was able to get a simple
roasted rack of lamb without the trimmings that camouflage
the delicate flavor. Their Mandalong lambs are slaughtered
at 9 months: They are weaned at 3 months and fattened
on grain for better texture and flavor.
E'cco, 100 Boundary St., Brisbane. Tel: (7) 3831-8344.
Philip Johnson offers no-nonsense food in a lovely
setting. He uses all the clichés in the book,
but his creations manage to taste original and appealing.
Try the Moreton Bay bugs, a type of shellfish, with
pine nuts and aioli; roast chicken with couscous, yogurt,
artichokes and asparagus, or sand crabs with chilies
and lemon oil. Save room for the Venetian espresso cake
with coconut ice cream and shavings of fresh coconut.
Pier Nine Oyster Bar & Seafood Grill, Eagle Street
Pier, 1 Eagle St., Brisbane. Tel: (7) 3229-2194.
This is a beautiful waterside setting for great oysters
and such specials as king prawns with garlic hollandaise
or Victoria black-lip mussels with ginger, chili, sweet
curry leaves and lime juice.
MELBOURNE
Flower Drum, 17 Market Lane, Melbourne. Tel: (61-3)
9662-3655.
For Chinese food like you have never had before, depend
on the owner Gilbert Lau to wow you with such specialties
as tender baby abalone the size of an oyster, bathed
in vinegar, ginger and soy. The dish was a gastronomic
revelation.
Richmond Hill Café & Larder, 48-50 Bridge
Road, Richmond. Tel: (3) 9421-2808; fax: (3) 9421-2818.
Stephanie Alexander, one of Australia's top restaurateurs
and food personalities, has opened this casual café
with an exquisite cheese room, great wines and a modern
menu that includes pastas, such traditional fare as
boeuf à la mode and cheese plates with fruits,
nuts and breads. Sunday nights are reserved for a variety
of functions, such as cabaret nights and wine dinners.
|
