Patricia's Restaurant Picks for 1998           Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes 106, rue de la Folie Mericourt Paris 75011 01 43 57 33 78 Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. 148-franc menu. 160 to 210 francs. Those who remember Francoise, the chatty waitress from the Café des Federations in Lyon, will be happy to find her holding court here, with her amiable husband at the stove.The weather calls for the hearty fare of Lyon: Sausages, Beaujolais, fun! Fogon Saint-Julien 10, rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre Paris 75005 01 43 54 31 33 Closed Sunday. 120-franc menu. A la carte, 280 to 320 francs. This authentic Spanish restaurant offers a change of pace, with great tapas, excellent paella, a warm welcome, irresistible hot melted chocolate and a good Spanish wine list. Dame Jeanne 60, rue de Charonne Paris 75011 01 47 00 37 40 Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday 110, 128 & 165F menus A new favorite near Bastille; clean, modern, excellent bistro fare, a huge bargain. Maceo 15, rue des Petits Champs Paris 75001 01 42 96 98 89 Closed Sunday, 185F lunch 220F dinner. Newest spot from Mark Williamson of Willi. s Wine bar, ok food great wine. Les Allobroges 71, rue des Grands Champs Paris 75020 01 43 73 40 00 Closed Sunday & Monday 85 & 150F menus Charming, out of way, very earthy simple flavors. L'Epi Dupin 11, rue Dupin Paris 75006 01 42 22 64 56 Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday; 97F lunch 153F dinner. Simple, lively, modern bistro fare Au Bascou 38, rue Reamur Paris 75003 01 42 72 69 25 Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday 85F lunch menu SW French: great lamb, squid, ham, good wines Cap Vernet 82, ave Marceau Paris 75008 01 47 20 20 40 Open daily, great oysters, great food, casual Eric Frechon 10, rue General Brunet Paris 75019 01 40 40 03 30 Closed Sunday & Monday 180F menu Modern, hip, good buy fare from Eric Frechont Les Olivades 41, ave de Segur Paris 75007 01 47 83 70 09 Closed Saturday & Sunday 80F lunch menu, 149 F dinner Young creative female chef, thoroughly Provencal, a great hit Jamin 32, rue de Longchamp Paris 75016 01 45 53 00 07 Closed Saturday and Sunday, 280F lunch menu, 375F dinner Benoit Guichard, former Robuchon second, with modern, creative fare Le Pre Catelan Bois de Boulogne Paris 75016 01 44 14 41 14 Closed Sunday dinner & Monday, 290 lunch menu, 480 dinner My current FAVORITE! Frederic Anton, former Robuchon second, elegant, romantic L'Astor - Hotel Astor 11, rue d'Astorg Paris 75008 01 53 05 05 05 Closed Saturday and Sunday, 290F lunch menu Robuchon is consultant, with chef Eric Lecerf: modern, creative, great wines Restaurant du Palais Royal 110, Gallerie De Valois Paris 75001 01 40 20 00 27 Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, 300-400 francs In the Palais Royal, great outdoor tables in good weather, simple good food Alsaco 10, rue Condorcet Paris 75009 01 45 26 44 31 Closed Sat lunch & Sun For choucroute fans! A tiny lively smoky bistro! 87-franc menu, @ 170F