With great pleasure I am announcing changes and new offerings in our cooking school, At Home with Patricia Wells. Since we began classes in Provence in 1995, the steady evolution in the program has been a joy and  the positive reaction of students is a constant encouragement to do more things and to do them better. This summer (the first in years when I haven’t faced a book deadline*) we have spent a good deal time thinking about the classes, both in Provence and Paris, and we’ve come up with some changes that I think you’ll like.

• To thank former students for their fidelity, anyone who has previously attended a week-long class in either Paris or Provence, or our classes in Venice, Florence, Verona, or Vietnam, will qualify for a 25% discount when enrolling in the next regularly scheduled class.

• To reward students who come with a companion who is paying the full rate -- whether a spouse, a partner, a parent, a relative, a good friend -- a 25% discount will apply for the companion. (See the FAQs for full details on the discount program.)

• By popular request we are instituting a “dining companion” program for the Provence weeks. Classes will now be limited to 8 students, and we are offering 2 “dining companion” spots, to be filled on a first-come, first-served basis. For a $500 fee, 2 students (and only 2) may bring a companion to dine with us at the Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday night dinners, the Wednesday morning wine-tasting and restaurant lunch, and the farewell lunch on Friday. (As always, a companion may join us for the Wednesday wine-tasting and the following lunch for a fee of $125, and be our guests at the final Friday lunch.)

• Gather a group of 7 friends for a class in either Paris or Provence, and the organizer will be “comped” for the week. (If space is not available in an existing class, we can work to find a date that suits us all.)

So, beginning in 2013, those new offers will apply to everyone, those already enrolled, as well as newcomers. (For those already enrolled for 2013 classes, discounts will be handled when the balance due is paid.)

We are thinking about other ideas also -- a new modified Fitness Week in Provence (a 5-mile morning hike before cooking classes); new dinners with star winemakers in Provence; and increased wine education in both Paris and Provence.

In Provence, the extension of the Julia Child Kitchen is almost completed, with brand new spaces for prep and cooking, with the latest in induction cook tops, a plancha, an electric grill. Julia’s faithful La Cornue from her kitchen in Grasse is still right there in its place of honor, and cooking on it remains one of the highlights of the time that students spend with us at Chanteduc.

We’d love to hear your reactions to the changes and the new ideas. And of course we’d love to see new as well as repeat students back with us in Provence and Paris. Prices remain unchanged: $5,500 for Truffle Week, $5,000 for the classic weeks in Provence, and $5,500 for Paris.

The 2013 season will begin, as ever, with our spectacular Truffle Extravaganza in January. This summer I have focused on gathering exceptional bottles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – both whites and reds – to pair with our stunning truffle meals. In February and March, our popular week-long Cooking in Paris courses will include plenty of seasonal hand’s-on cooking, a market visit, comparative tastings of cheese, wine and olive oil, as well as a memorable three-star restaurant meal organized personally with the chef. From June to September, we continue our week-long classes of Cooking in Provence, gathering  herbs, fruits and vegetables from the Chanteduc garden; sampling wines of the Rhone Valley, including our own; visiting the famous weekly market in Vaison-la-Romaine; meeting with winemakers and cheese merchants; making great meals ourselves and once during the week enjoying the cuisine of our local chefs.

Beyond the classes listed below we are always happy to accommodate private groups of 7 for Paris classes and 8 in Provence. Please contact us to arrange dates.  Requests for 1-day classes for groups of 4 or more can be considered.

Because of some last-minute swaps there are openings for the following dates:

September 2 to 7, 2012 Cooking in Provence

September 16 to 21, 2012 Cooking in Provence

September 30 to October 5, 2012  Cooking in Provence

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2013 CLASS DATES:

PROVENCE COOKING CLASS: FRESH  BLACK TRUFFLES

January 21 to 25, 2013 Cooking in Provence

PARIS COOKING CLASSES:

February 25 to March 1, 2013 Cooking in Paris

March 11 to 15, 2013  Cooking in Paris

March 25 to 29, 2013  Cooking in Paris

PROVENCE COOKING CLASSES:

June 9 to 14, 2013   Cooking in Provence

June 23 to 28,  2013  Cooking in Provence

September 8 to 13, 2013   Cooking in Provence

September 22 to 27, 2013   Cooking in Provence

*The working title of the next book, my 14^th, is Cooking with Patricia: Life Lessons From My Two French Kitchens etc. Publication by HarperCollins, as usual, in 2013.  In addition, the classic paper version of my latest Food Lover’s Guide to Paris will be out in 2014, published by Workman Publishing.

Click here to enroll in a 
Patricia Wells cooking class

Potatoes Johannes

Golden brown, with a firm and crusty exterior, a smooth and creamy interior, these oh-so-easy potatoes have become a staple at our table.  The potatoes were part of a vegetable medley at a recent lunch with our cooking school students at Johannes Sailer’s Les Abeilles in the Provencal village of Sablet. I like to roast the potatoes on a bed of freshly harvested rosemary.

3 to 4 tablespoons chicken fat, duck fat, or olive oil

1 pound (500 g) firm, yellow-fleshed potatoes, such Yukon Gold (each about 4 ounces; 125 g), scrubbed but not peeled, halved lengthwise

Fleur de sel

Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

1. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

1. In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the poultry fat or oil over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Add the potatoes and sear on all sides until a deep golden and well-crusted, about 15 minutes total, adding additional fat if the pan becomes too dry.  Season lightly with salt. Place a bed of rosemary in a roasting pan. Add the seared potatoes and roast until they can easily be pierced with a fork, 25 to 30 minutes. Season to taste and serve warm.

4 servings

For nearly 30 years I have made regular pilgrimages to Le Bistrot du Paradou, where Mireille and Jean-Louis Pons held court, offering us incomparable local Provençal fare, from lamb to rabbit, garlicky aioli and tender roast chicken. Vegetable dishes are honored here, including golden slices of eggplant, always offset by this thick and shimmering tomates concassées, a thick tomato accompaniment glistening with the local oil from the cooperative in Maussane-les-Alpilles, studded with cubes of ruby tomatoes, bits of onion and fresh leaves of basil. Years ago I asked Mireille for the recipe, and she offered that off season she used canned tomatoes and in season usually a blend of fresh and canned. I spent endless hours attempting to recreate the sauce, never achieving any of the elegance of Mireille’s triumph. Mireille and Jean-Louis are no longer a presence in this always lively bistrot, but on my last visit longtime chef Vincent revealed the simplicity of the recipe: Canned diced tomatoes cooked long and slow, embellished with nothing more than the best olive oil, a touch of salt, onions, and basil. Success at last! The aroma that fills the kitchen as the fragrant olive oil hits the warm, thick sauce is worth the effort all on its own. In our house, a favorite use is as a topping for freshly toasted homemade multigrain sourdough bread.

One 28-ounce (765 g) can diced tomatoes in juice (do not drain)

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, minced

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

A small handful fresh basil leaves, chopped if large

In a large saucepan, combine the tomatoes, 2 tablespoons of the oil, the onion, salt, and basil. Stir to blend. Simmer, uncovered, over lowest possible heat, until most of the liquid has cooked away and the sauce is thick, 40 to 45 minutes. Stir regularly to prevent the sauce from sticking to the pan.  Taste for seasoning. While still warm, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Use as a vegetable garnish or as a  sauce for pastas or pizzas. (Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

2 cups (500 ml) sauce

I am looking forward to our opening  Provence session of At Home With Patricia Wells this Sunday, June 3. We have a full list of classes planned in June, July, September and October. While most of the sessions are fully booked, a few places are still open for the week of September 16 to 21, and we look forward to welcoming everyone then! You will find  full information on this page. To enroll, click here: patriciawells.com/cooking.

The following recipe is a brand new favorite, and one we'll be preparing in class next week:

BRAISED ASPARAGUS WITH WHIPPED RICOTTA, HAM, PARMESAN & HERBS

Braising asparagus --- cooking it in a small amount of liquid, covered  -- seems to bring out the vegetal qualities of this sublime vegetable. Adding a touch of fresh rosemary and bay leaf only intensifies its bright, herbal flavors. In this dish,  a white cloud of whipped ricotta adds a contrast of textures and colors, while a touch Parmesan, ham, and  a shower of fresh herbs turns this into a healthy Salad As A Meal.

Equipment: A heavy-duty mixer fitted with a whisk; a large skillet with a lid; 4 warmed salad plates.

The whipped ricotta:
2 cups (8 ounces; 250 g) best-quality sheep’s milk or cow’s milk ricotta
4 tablespoons whole milk
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
The asparagus:
16 plump spears (about 2 pounds; 1 kg) fresh green asparagus, trimmed
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
Several bay leaves, preferably fresh
Several sprigs fresh rosemary
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Fleur de sel

The garnish:
About 40 shavings (about 2 ounces; 60 g total) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
About 3 ounces (90 g) matchsticks of ham or sausage
Fresh thyme leaves, for garnish
Fresh parsley leaves, for garnish
Minced fresh rosemary, for garnish

1. In the bowl of the mixer, whisk together the ricotta and the milk until light and fluffy. Add the salt and whisk once more.
2. In a skillet large enough to hold the asparagus in a single layer, combine the oil, asparagus, oil, coarse salt, bay leaves, and rosemary. Add enough water to cover the asparagus by about one-third. Cover. Cook over high heat just until the oil and water mixture begin to sizzle.
3. Reduce heat to medium and braise the asparagus, turning from time to time, just until the vegetable begins to brown in spots and are offer no resistance when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 6 to 8 minutes. (Cooking time will depend upon the thickness of the asparagus.)  Shower with the lemon zest and juice.
4. Remove and discard the bay leaves and rosemary. Arrange 4 asparagus on each salad plate. While still warm, shower with the Parmesan strips, the meat matchsticks, and herbs. Place a scoop of whipped ricotta alongside the asparagus. Season lightly with fleur de sel. Serve immediately.
4 servings

THE SECRET: The words “serve immediately” are serious here: Once cooked, asparagus go limp rapidly. Much of the joy of this preparation is the crunch of the just-cooked vegetable, so take advantage of it.

Variation: Substitute yuzu juice and yuzu zest for the lemon, or braise with the addition of either fresh mint or rosemary, removing the herbs once the asparagus is cooked.

Our app is just a month old, and we've had a great response. Here are just a few comments we've received:

Patricia Wells's Food Lover's app is not just a guide to the best food in Paris but it's a way to dream about it when you're not there.  It's brilliantly done and so easy to use.  Thank you, Patricia!"

Ina Garten

Barefoot Contessa cookbooks

"Food lovers rejoice! You can now tour Paris with Patricia Wells, the city's most reliable guide to its very best spots. Her app is fast and easy to use, chock-full of terrific information and a great read. In other words, it's a delicious must have."

Dorie Greenspan

author of Around My French Table and the Baking with Dorie iPad application

“What a well-designed guide for anyone who is looking to be guided through the culinary delights of Paris. Looking for the perfect roast chicken? Truffles? Haute Cuisine? Restaurant tips? It’s all here, plus more, and extremely easy to use! Patricia Wells does it again!”

Laura Tiffany, Minneapolis

“I love Paris. I love food. This is the app of my dreams. And what a bargain. I’d pay this much just for the delicious French culinary glossary. Merci Madame Wells.”

Stewart McBride

“The long-awaited update was well worth the wait! This is the only guide you will need to explore the wonders of the Paris food scene. Beautifully written and extremely well-researched, Patricia Wells takes you on the perfect culinary tour of Paris. Great insights into both the classic bistro cuisine of Paris and the ever-changing ethnic scene…I am ready to book a flight to Paris. A must-have app for the lover of all things culinary.”

Jeffrey Bergman

“It’s worth flying off to Paris (again and again) to eat through this terrific guide. We all want to make the most of our travels, and are always looking for the person who knows to ask “Where should we go? What should we order?” Patricia Wells is that person, and we can call her app 24/7 and ask those questions, and get the fool-proof answer, along with directions, times, and telephone numbers. One other great use for this app: When you’ve returned home after your visit, as we recently did, this app is the perfect reminder of places and plates. Brava Patricia Wells!”

Geof Drummond

“Definitely download this app…and especially if you like to eat! Patricia has done all the leg-work for you. Her reviews are informative and trustworthy and the map is incredibly useful even if you’re just out for a stroll. I has saved me many times when I’ve gotten lost in a maze of winding streets…Don’t come to Paris without it!”

Elissa W

Gontran Cherrier’s Tarte au Chocolat, Miel, et Noix

Dear Friends

I am very excited to announce that THE FOOD LOVER’S GUIDE TO PARIS is back! All new content in an all new format -- as an app for the iPhone, also compatible with the iPad and iTouch. April 17 is the target date to begin sales on the iTunes App Store!

Over the past 15 months I have been visiting, re-visiting, and testing the best of culinary Paris, and the result is a user-friendly app that includes more than 350 favorite addresses, from restaurants, cafés, and wine bars, to the best in cheese shops, bakeries, pastry shops, chocolate shops, markets and specialty shops. Features include color-coded pins and GPS locations to guide you to the best spots nearby as you wander the city. You can browse by category or neighborhood, or if you are just looking for a place for a quick late-night bite, you find it quickly. You will be able to call establishments, link to their web sites, and even find directions. Color photos are included for most destinations. The app also features my popular A-Z glossary of French culinary terms. For more information, visit www.foodloverparis.com and on Itunes (click here to download now!). Note that you can also gift the app, tell a friend, share on Twitter and Facebook. And a 5-star rating would be most welcome!

Patricia

http://itunes.com/apps/thefoodloversguidetoparis

PS: for Blackberry and Android users: Not yet, unfortunately. Those smartphone platforms are a future challenge

Mushrooms amaze me. They give so much for so little. One of the least expensive vegetables to be found in the market year-round, the common button mushroom is a treasure of flavor, texture, aroma. A good fresh mushroom needs little embellishment: Here I simply cook the mushrooms in a touch of butter, a squeeze of lemon juice, then bathe them in a sauce of reduced light cream and stock. Top the mushrooms with a sheet of pasta, a garnish of parsley and you’ve got dinner on the table.

Equipment: A 10-quart (10 l) pasta pot fitted with a colander; 4 warmed dinner plates

2 cups (500 ml) Homemade Chicken or Vegetable Stock

2 cups (500 ml) light cream

1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter

1 pound (500 g) mixed domestic or mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and halved

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Four 5-inch (12.5 cm) squares of fresh pasta

3 tablespoons coarse sea salt

Fresh parsley leaves, for garnish

1. In a saucepan, combine the stock and cream and reduce by half over high heat, about 15 minutes.

1. In a large saucepan, combine the butter, mushrooms, and lemon juice. Cover and cook over moderate heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the reduced stock mixture, and stir to coat the mushrooms. Keep the mushrooms warm while finishing the dish.

1. Fill the pasta pot with 8 quarts (8 l) of water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat.  Add the coarse salt and the pasta, stirring to prevent the pasta from sticking. Cook until tender. Drain.
2. Arrange the sauced mushrooms in the center of each dinner plate. Arrange a sheet of pasta on top of the mushrooms. Garnish with parsley and serve.

4 servings

Wine suggestion: I like white wine with my mushrooms: Try the simple, light, refreshing Picpoul de Pinet from Domaine Félines Jourdain.

AHEAD OF TIME NOTE:

Prepare the mushrooms and sauce earlier in the day, combine them, and refrigerate. At serving time warm them as the water boils for pasta.

Thank you, Yannick Alléno, for bringing us yet another chic, casual, well-priced good-food bistro that’s open seven days a week. I am loving this trend. Alléno is the Michelin three-star chef at the outstanding Hotel Meurice, who several years ago began a lunch menu centered around products of the Paris region: Special carrots and onions, poultry and mushrooms, lettuces and even beef and lamb. He’s now carried his passion one step further with the brand-new bistro Terroir Parisien, a bright, light, airy space in the Maubert-Mutualité area of the 5^th arrondissement, home to the twice-weekly produce market, Eric Kayer’s  bread and pastry boutiques,, and Laurent Dubois’s top-flight cheese shop. As Alléno began at the Meurice and continues here, most of the dishes are historic, relating to the days when the bulk of what Parisian ate came from the city’s surrounding fields. There’s a classic – and perfect – salade de frisée, cresson à l’ouef mollet et croutons et lardons (photo), tender curly endive and watercress topped with a flawless soft-cooked egg, crunchy croutons and crisp rectangles of fragrant bacon. A few grindings of the pepper mill and I was good to go. I’d be proud to bring to the table their navarin printanier d’agneau de chez Morisseau, a moist, delicate spring lamb stew teamed up with baby carrots, potatoes, green beans, peas, and herbs. I have not seen the old-fashioned merlan Colbert (whole whiting breaded and deep-fried) since the 1980’s, when Joël Robuchon brought it back to the table at Jamin. Here the dish was as golden, tender, and crisp as can be, served with a delicate herb butter. There is also the classic French onion soup, stuffed cabbage, platters of excellent charcuterie from Gilles Vérot’s boutiques, and a cheese plate. Service here was tentative and distracted, and the wine list needs a serious boost. Soon they hope to continue service nonstop from noon to midnight, meaning you can pull up a stool and enjoy a croque monsieur and a glass of wine at 4 in the afternoon. Sunday brunch will also be offered in the coming weeks.

TERROIR PARISIEN, 20 rue Saint-Victor,Paris 5. Tel: +33 1 44 31 54 54. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité. Open daily.

www.yannick-alleno.com Email reservations@bistrot-terroirparisien.fr Lunch & Dinner: 11-35€

Another Saint-Germain opening today, with Alain Dutournier’s all-modern, red, grey, white, and black Southwestern-accented Pinxo, his second in the city. Pronounced “pinch-oh,” the word comes from the Aquitaine region of France’s Southwest and signifies “pinching something from someone else’s plate.” Here, Dutournier offers a tempting trio of three significant bites of each dish, focusing on all the finest ingredients of the region: baby squid, or chipirions; foie gras; local ham: beef from Chalosse;, brebis sheep’s milk cheese from Gabas; plenty of piment d’Espelette to perk up any dish; as well as the famed tourtière Landaise (a local strudel-like dessert filled with apples or prunes) and here served with a prune ice cream. The food is streamlined and beautiful, with a well-seasoned variation of the Vietnamese spring roll, tasty pieces of crab and vegetables wrapped carefully in rice paper, a lovely starter (or meal on its own) with crunch and character (photo). The sautéed gambas topped with a fiery green curry were set on a bed of fragrant, perfectly cooked rice, laced with a touch of coconut milk (photo). A third choice, an unusual mix of baby squid and piquillos peppers, tiny macaroni, strips of fried ginger and thin chips of garlic, was pleasant enough, but lacked spark. A sprinkling of ground piment d’Espelette (at each table, along with salt and pepper) helped boost the flavor. Overall, I found the food could have come with a bit more punch, brighter flavors, more focus. But I’ll be back, loving the idea that I could stop in a 4 in the afternoon for a serving of grilled bread and smoked salmon paired with an avocado mousse, or a simple tartine, or open-face sandwich of tomato and aged ham.

PINXO SAINT GERMAIN, 82 rue Mazarine, Paris 6. Tel: +33 1 43 54 02 11.Métro: Mabillon. Open daily noon to midnight.

www.pinxo.fr Email pinxo.pinxo@orange.fr. Lunch: 29€ lunch menu (includes glass of wine). A la carte, 10-45€

Dinner: A la carte 10-45 €

The original Pinxo is at 9 rue Alger, Paris 1. Tel: +33 1 40 20 72 00. Open Monday-Saturday. Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday.